by Sue Carroll | Apr 2, 2024 | Uncategorized
Enzyme Exfoliation for the Winter Skin
All skin types can benefit from enzyme exfoliation during the cooler months of winter, where hot showers and heaters create superficial dryness. Enzymes are a naturally occurring solution for this challenge by digesting and dissolving dead, dry skin cells, revealing healthy, radiant skin.
Enzymes are primarily proteins that are necessary for life. In the body and cells their role ranges from digestion to increasing metabolism. They speed up the rate of most chemical reactions that take place in the cells, catalyzing most cellular functions.
When applied topically, enzymes are proteolytic, meaning they digest the cells of the stratum corneum – the first layer of the skin. Enzymes break down the old cells that congest the pores and will then prevent the penetration of topical serums, which in turn hinders overall skin functioning. Removing the dead skin cells, allows the skin to regenerate more quickly, assisting with skin concerns such as premature aging and acne. Other benefits when using enzymes include their ability to increase skin elasticity and hydration by maintaining natural moisture levels in the skin. Enzymes speed up cellular functioning and fight against oxidation and free radical damage, protecting skin from environmental damage.
In the treatment room enzymes and acids can be used separately or mixed, each providing a powerful result. Enzymes in general are less exfoliating than acids like glycolic, salicylic, mandelic or lactic. Therefore, they are more appropriate for sensitive, medically compromised, reactive or thin skin. Introducing enzymes in skin treatments when you are pregnant or breastfeeding is particularly useful to still allow an effective method of exfoliation.
Enzymes:
Mostly sourced from vegetables and fruit such as pumpkin, (the most exfoliating enzyme) pineapple (bromelain enzyme), papaya (papain enzyme), and apples
A gentle exfoliation method but this can be dependent on the pH
Exfoliates the stratum corneum
Less likely to irritate the skin
Function at a wider pH range
Digest dead skin cells
Come in the form of either a gommage, gel, cream, liquid or powder
Acids:
Mostly sourced from milk, sugar and plant-based products
Deeper exfoliation method with progressive, mid-depth and deep peeling levels
Can be an aggressive method of exfoliation
Are both pH and % dependent on the level of exfoliation
Dissolve dead skin cells
Enzymes can be more efficiently utilized in the treatment room when:
The cleanser being used is chosen wisely. A creamy cleanser will limit the exfoliation intensity compared to a foamy or gel-based cleanser.
A pre-peel solution will strip the skin of lipids and therefore facilitate a more aggressive exfoliation
The use of heat and moisture with a steamer or hot towel will amplify the enzyme activity.
Enzymes can be added to many treatments in the clinic room to increase their efficacy. They can be blended with antioxidants, pure vitamins and hyaluronic acid which will increase the support, hydration and vital nutrients of the skin. Some of the treatment modalities which will benefit from the addition of enzymes are:
*Microdermabrasion results using suction and super fine crystals to exfoliate the skin can be amplified when using enzyme exfoliation before the treatment
*JetPeel treatments utilize a medical-grade saline solution instead of microcrystals from the microdermabrasion. The supersonic jet of saline droplets from the JetPeel is amplified when an enzyme solution is used before this step. This has the added benefit of improving the circulation and hydration of the skin
*Ultrasonic skin exfoliating utilises sound waves and vibrations that penetrate through the upper layers of the skin. The Ultrasonic treatment improves the texture, tone and circulation of the skin. The benefits of the Ultrasonic device are amplified when an enzyme exfoliation is used before the treatment.
Enzymes are not new in the aesthetic arena but are worth consideration when wanting healthy, hydrated and radiant skin.
Renew & Revive Skin with a Peel
by wallacemcd | Apr 2, 2024 | Uncategorized
Brown Skin Spots and the Sun
We all desire a clear and consistent skin tone. However, lingering hyperpigmentation is a constant barrier to achieving this. It impacts every skin type at every stage of our lives, especially when sun exposure, heat and prolonged UV damage are factors. The pleasing news is that with the proper homecare regime and in-clinic treatments, the brown spots can be reduced or removed completely. This will be a consistent programme including prevention and treatment.
Hyperpigmentation refers to areas of the skin with an abnormal appearance of pigment, resulting in darker areas of the skin compared to the rest of the complexion. There are 3 main types of hyperpigmentation: epidermal (surface is light brown and not quite as dense), dermal (skin is ashen-gray and a deep brown and appears more solid), and then a mixture (both of the above levels and is usually dark brown).
There are many triggers creating pigmentation (dyschromias) changes, as well as varying depths of damage to the skin. These types of changes in the skin may occur when melanocytes (colour-producing cells) are either over-stimulated resulting in hyperpigmentation, or they may be destroyed, resulting in hypopigmentation. The colour changes may also be an uneven pigmentation from procedures, picking or scratching. Melasma is denoted by more dense larger patches and is normally created with hormonal imbalance with estrogen and progesterone. Other causes may include birth control pills, HRT, PIH (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation), long-term sun exposure, razor bumps, heat, humidity, severe sunburn, eczema, chemical irritations, rashes, abrasive scrubs, medications, chicken pox, insect bites, surgical procedures, thyroid and adrenal disorders.
One thing to keep in mind with most types of hyperpigmentation is our melanocytes are there for a reason, which is to protect the cell initially. We need this in order to help fight against the impact of the UV rays. After this protection process has taken place, the skin is now left with underlying damage which is seen in the form of pigmentation.
The 2 main factors stimulating hyperpigmentation are UV exposure and heat. Wearing an SPF of 30+ each day will assist with this protection. The best sunscreens for hyperpigmentation are typically all-mineral formulas. Chemical SPFs neutralize the UVA and UVB rays, while the mineral SPFs, create a barrier on top of the skin, blocking these factors and protecting it from infrared damage. A huge reminder, even when you wear your hat, sun protection and sunglasses and your face is covered, tanning on other parts of your body can still stimulate the melanocytes.
Hydroquinone is a well-known ingredient to treat hyperpigmentation. It is banned in many countries as it has been linked to possibly being carcinogenic. Our skin is very smart and may develop a resistance, or immunity to it, resulting in a very dark hyperpigmentation, which usually takes longer to reduce.
Other proven ingredients for use in both homecare and clinical treatments include the enzyme papain (from the papaya), and bakuchiol (a retinol alternative supporting the skin’s cellular renewal. When applied topically it encourages sloughing of overly pigmented cells, leaving skin looking renewed and more even), mandelic acid (a water-soluble exfoliating alpha hydroxy acid made from bitter almonds and is generally tolerated well by most skin types with its larger molecular size and therefore slowing the absorption resulting in less irritation to the skin), tranexamic acid (will even out hyperpigmentation when melanin density is connected to sun damage. It is also safe to use through pregnancy), pyruvic acid ( derived from the hibiscus and is both oil and water soluble and has the capacity to brighten the faster by encouraging the rapid cell regeneration), and niacinamide (a vitamin B3 product impedes the production of melanin as it is happening).
Some of the in-clinic treatments available include IPL, Fractional laser, Tixel, Q Switch Yag and herbal and chemical peels.
Protect the skin you are in, it is yours for a lifetime. Regardless of hyperpigmentation’s cause and its associated uneven tone and dark spots, it is essential in Australia to treat and prevent it on a regular basis. It is not a seasonal call to action, but instead a year-round commitment.
by Sue Carroll | Sep 3, 2023 | Uncategorized
Colour Correction, Skin Firming, Refinement and Radiance. What Treatment Do I Choose?
Texture, tone and colour all play a huge role in defining the appearance of healthy skin. There are many treatments available to improve the texture and complexion of your skin by reducing hyperpigmentation, and fine lines, clearing acne, improving pore size, reducing scarring and simply brightening the skin. But where to start, what to have and what to combine it all with, for the best possible result.
RF Skin Needling is a revolutionary skin tightening and firming treatment, which utilizes a combination of percutaneous needling and radio frequency to induce the tightening of elastin fibres and induce collagen production. A set of tiny needles creates controlled micro-injuries on the skin’s surface. These tiny needles also deliver radiofrequency energy to the deeper layers of the skin, promoting collagen production to firm the skin. By incorporating both the radio frequency and the use of the microneedles, the end result is a firming from the RF and a refinement of the skin texture. This treatment is also beneficial when treating stretch marks and scarring. If the skin is in a less than optimal condition it is a great choice to start with 2-3 skin needling treatments spaced about 7 days apart and then embark on the RF needling treatment which can be performed every month for 2-3 treatments with very minimal downtime.
Surface rejuvenation and toning with the Q switch laser is a gentle and non-invasive treatment that works by stimulating the deeper layers of the skin. A very short delivery system gently heats the skin, is able to shatter pigment, stimulate collagen production and assist with skin refinement all without downtime. The Q switch laser toning system is good for all skin types, particularly those who suffer from acne, blocked or enlarged pores, dull skin, pigmentation and simply those who wish to step up from their facial peels and treatments. The Q switch laser treatment may be added to a fractional laser treatment for a boost in results. It may also be used in the China Doll or Hollywood skin treatment for that special occasion.
Over time and then added stress in our lives, the underlying changes to the skin result in fine wrinkles, lines and sagging skin. HIFU is a treatment that works to lift and tighten the skin, and at the same time reduce fine lines. HIFU works by delivering ultrasound energy non-invasively to heat the skin tissue at numerous depths, from 1.5mm and up to 4.5mm for the face and up to 13mm for the body. This will trigger a natural regenerative reaction that promotes the development of new collagen and contracts the fibres for the firming effect. After the HIFU treatment, you can return to work the next day, with no visible downtime, occasionally a feeling of slight bruising may last for 2 weeks due to the depths the ultrasound has penetrated. It must be remembered nothing will replace a facelift but often when postponing this procedure, this might just be the next best thing when combined with IPL for colour correction, RF Needling for skin refinement and a little injectable here and there.
Fractional laser delivers multiple, microscopic columns of light energy into your skin to emulate micro-wounds which will in turn stimulate your skin’s natural healing and rejuvenation. Fractional laser is an effective treatment for pigmentation, fine lines created by the sun, scarring and general skin refinement. This treatment has a few days of minimal downtime and can be repeated every 4-6 until the desired results are achieved.
An old favourite and a great treatment to start with before all treatments is the IPL -Intense Pulsed Light. IPL uses multiple wavelengths and will treat both capillaries and pigmentation in the same treatment. Darkening of pigment is seen immediately post-treatment and can last 7-10 days and will then be sloughed off.
It is so easy to restore your confidence and natural beauty when you are guided by a professional aesthetician. Working with the inside and the outside, real beauty is much deeper and longer lasting and will radiate to the world. When you are not sure of what treatment is best for you, instead of guessing, simply book a consultation with your aesthetician and be guided by their expertise.
by Sue Carroll | Sep 13, 2022 | Uncategorized
What Is Comedogenicity
We have all used products where we end up with our skin blocked and spotty. These products can be anything from shampoo, conditioner, moisturiser, makeup or self-tanning products when applied to the skin or hair. Ingredients creating blocked follicles are known to be comedogenic.
A comedogenic component means that it can clog the pores. This is done by accumulating follicular hyperkeratosis – increased keratin production in the hair follicles. Over time, this may lead to blackheads, milia, sebaceous hyperplasia and clogged follicles. These symptoms do not always transpire quickly; it may take months of using a comedogenic product before it becomes obvious. Each person’s skin chemistry can determine the degree of an ingredient’s comedogenicity; therefore, it is highly mutable between people. One person may not react, while another may have disproportionately clogged pores in just a few short weeks.
Even ingredients not typically comedogenic can create havoc depending on our exclusive skin enzymes. Human sebum is inherently comedogenic, so even if you are prone to clogging and try to avoid all comedogenic ingredients, it is not certain protection against blackheads.
Some ingredients that may be comedogenic are petroleum derivatives, cocoa butter, oleic acid, sodium lauryl sulphate, coconut oil, wheat germ oil, palm oil, linseed oil, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl isostearate, butyl stearate, myristyl myristate, decyl oleate, octyl stearate, octyl palmitate, Isocetyl Stearate, propylene glycol-2, lanolin and coal tar derivatives. It is important to be aware that a product containing a comedogenic ingredient may not be a bad product choice for someone who is not prone to acne and blocked pores.
Comedogenic list inconsistencies are based on numerous elements. First, depending upon the component strength of that ingredient within the formula is vital. A formulation is not only a sum of its parts – component combinations can make a comedogenic ingredient into a non-comedogenic ingredient and vice versa.
Secondly, the process in which a component is extracted and treated plays a role.
Third, the source of the raw material can affect its rating.
Although comedogenicity is not an exact science, there are points to be aware of to help reduce the adverse effects of a product.
- Please read the ingredient index list on the back of the bottle or packaging and compare it with the comedogenic list
- Ensure shampoo and conditioner are thoroughly rinsed from your hair and keep it tied back at night to help reduce the leave-in residue pressed into and against the skin.
- Oil-free does not mean it is non-comedogenic
- Do not leave makeup on the skin overnight. Instead, ensure cleansing and toning with gauze and toning lotion occurs. For optimal results, cleansing and toning is done morning and night, followed by serums and treatment creams prescribed by your skincare professional.
- Using either retinol, mandelic, glycolic, lactic or BHA serum at night can assist with skin refinement and decongesting the skin
In-clinic treatments can help remove/reduce blockages in the skin. One of the most effective treatments is the Skin Classic, also known as Diathermy. It is an effective and affordable non-laser treatment for minor skin imperfections such as blackheads, milia and sebaceous hyperplasia. Diathermy will dehydrate the oil and reduce or remove the blockage when related to skin blockages. Treatments are relatively quick, with little discomfort, and provide instantaneous results with no anaesthesia and healing times ranging from 5 to 10 days to a few weeks for larger skin conditions. Best results are achieved when used in conjunction with a prescribed skincare routine to ensure the blockages are not reoccurring.
Many factors can lead to comedones, milia and sebaceous hyperplasia, including the skin’s natural oils, dead skin, makeup or other products becoming lodged in the pore. Do your homework with the ingredient index and follow a prescribed skincare programme, and the risk of blockages in the skin will be reduced.
Here is a link to a great article
For other related posts see the links below
Shining the light on Hyperpigmentation
The Lymphatic System and the Skin
by Sue Carroll | Jul 13, 2022 | Uncategorized
Men vs Women Are They Different?
Do Men & Women Have Different Skin? Our largest organ, the skin, has many similarities between men and women, but there are also some key differences. Men’s skin is recognised as different from women’s by the top skin care companies worldwide.
Hormones will always be the main difference between men and women, which is the first step to explaining the differences in men’s skin. The androgens, particularly the hormone testosterone, attach to the receptors in the dermis and epidermis, creating noticeable differences in the male skin physiology.
Essentially there are six primary differences between men’s and women’s skin.
- Men have slightly oilier skin than women. This is because their sebaceous or oil-producing glands are smaller, but their skin has a higher secretion of sebum. Oilier skin can be more prone to open pores, blemishes and acne. Considering this, men’s skin care products, starting with their shaving system, will factor this in to offer more balance for sebum production.
- Men have more facial hair than women, which is more coarse and tough. When choosing a shaving protocol, consider both the condition of the skin and the hair texture to help avoid pseudofolliculitis – aka ingrown hairs. This is where the coarse hair grows sideways in the skin follicle and is caused mainly by shaving. Where possible, the wet shaving method will produce a better and more consistent shave, reduce razor burn, skin irritations, and ingrown hairs and produce a clean and healthy appearance. Men’s skincare products that control infection and reduce cellular blockages will help to eliminate this problem.
- Men’s skin is slightly more acidic and has an overall sweat composition that contains more AHA and lactic acid, contributing to the skin’s acidity. Washing the skin is the first step in any skin care programme. Most face washes or soaps men use have a very high pH level, undermining the skin’s natural defence system. The perfect face wash for men will clean, energise and maintain the skin’s natural acid mantle, producing healthier skin.
- Most men experience more sensitive skin compared to women. This may be seen in the form of flaking, dryness and redness. Starting with the irritating effects of shaving, incorrect products and regime, and other damaging conditions such as wind, cuts, sun, the use of hot water, and chemicals will increase skin sensitivity.
- Physiologically male skin has more active fibroblast cells compared to women. This results in an increase in collagen production, which means thicker skin. Thicker skin has many advantages, but it also has a downside whereby their skin may have more and deeper facial lines and more age spots. Men’s skin cells also carry fewer antioxidants, which can increase the number and depth of facial lines and pigmentation marks. When men look after their skin from an early age with sun protection and preventative repair serums and treatment creams, they can maintain skin tone, strength and a marked reduction in wrinkles.
- The rate of skin cancer is also higher, particularly in Caucasian men. The most common form of skin cancer in men is melanoma, generally found on the neck, upper back, ears and face. For maximum sun protection, a good sunscreen with zinc oxide must be used daily as it will contain a naturally higher occurring sun protection factor.
Men are wanting result-oriented treatments and products, but they still want simplicity. Many of the time-proven, effective ingredients will deliver the same benefits to both sexes, but it is the levels within the formulas that make the difference. A scientifically formulated skincare range and treatment programme will be focused on five simple but critical skin laws: cleanse, exfoliate, tone, restore and build and protect.
by Sue Carroll | May 18, 2022 | Uncategorized
Collagen Reduces Visible Signs of Aging
There are three main fundamental building blocks to sustain the skin and reduce the observable signs of aging. These are Collagen, hyaluronic acid and calcium. The most common and plentiful of our bodies’ proteins is Collagen.
Collagen is manufactured in our bodies by combining different amino acids or building blocks from the protein found in our food. One of the primary purposes of Collagen is to deliver structural scaffolding for our various tissues to allow them to stretch while still preserving the integrity of the tissue. While a diet rich in Collagen can help balance the signs of aging in the skin, it is also important it for bone health, nails and hair.
The loss of Collagen is one of the most significant contributors to our observable signs of aging, such as sagging, dull and wrinkled skin. When our collagen levels are heightened, our skin will be firm, smooth and soft because collagen permits skin cells to revitalise and repair themselves continually. By the time we reach our 80s, we have approximately four times less Collagen than when we were in our youth.
Regardless of your age, making healthy, youthful skin is harder to attain when certain lifestyle and environmental factors also harm your collagen production. Factors that can slow the body’s ability to manufacture Collagen may include:- hormone imbalances, impaired thyroid function, overwork, processed foods, fluoridated water, pollution and dust, hydrogenated cooking oils, nutritional deficiencies, radiation, excessive sun exposure, stress, sugar, poor liver or kidney function, lack of both sleep and exercise.
Health advantages provided by collagen supplementation include:
- Deeper sleep and serotonin release due to its glycine content,
- Better blood clotting and wound healing,
- Decreased joint pain and stiffness,
- Improved gut health and digestion,
- Improved blood pressure and Reduced cardiovascular harm,
- Better glucose tolerance
- Reduced inflammation and oxidative stress and therefore having a positive impact on the health of your skin.
While 28 different types of Collagen are known scientifically, most supplements will contain 1 or more of the 5 most commonly known collagen types:
- Type 1 – makes up about 90% of the Collagen in our body. Nearly all tissue contains Type 1 collagen, including bones, tendons, connective tissue, and cartilage, and it is most abundant in the skin. However, it degrades over time, becoming apparent with the appearance of loss of elasticity, fine lines and wrinkles.
- Type 2 – is found primarily in cartilage and provides the cushion for your bones and joints
- Type 3 – is often found alongside type1 Collagen. It assists with the hydration of our skin, creating cushion or plumpness within the second layer of skin, the dermis.
- Type 4– makes up the thin layer outside the cells, giving them their structure and is found in the skin, kidneys, liver and other vital organs.
- Type 5– helps form keratin cell surfaces in our hair and nails. It is also required to form the cells that create a pregnant woman’s placenta, which is the baby’s life support system inside the womb.
The best way to have beautiful, healthy skin is to work from the inside out. A balanced diet and lifestyle are imperative. Unhydrolised or less-denatured collagen supplementation made from grass-fed beef bones can be added to your diet with bone broth daily. Powdered collagen supplements are also popular and may be added to smoothies each day. A powder that combines both animal and marine Collagen is best. Other nutrients the body requires to synthesise Collagen are biotin (B7), zinc, vitamin C, copper and other trace minerals.
The next component to having healthy, Collagen supported skin is to stimulate your skin regeneration topically with in-clinic professional treatments, a twice-daily home-care regime and good-quality skincare products.
The best way to approach aging and good health is to work on the inside and outside. The outcome is going to provide the best version of ourselves. Collagen anyone.
