What Treatment Do I Choose?

by Sue Carroll | Sep 3, 2023 | Uncategorized

Colour Correction, Skin Firming, Refinement and Radiance. What Treatment Do I Choose?

Trust Your Gut When it Comes to Your Skin

by Sue Carroll | Jan 1, 2023 | Uncategorized

Trust Your Gut When it Comes to Your Skin

What Is Comedogenicity – Pore Blocking Ingredients

by Sue Carroll | Sep 13, 2022 | Uncategorized

What Is Comedogenicity

We have all used products where we end up with our skin blocked and spotty. These products can be anything from shampoo, conditioner, moisturiser, makeup or self-tanning products when applied to the skin or hair. Ingredients creating blocked follicles are known to be comedogenic.

A comedogenic component means that it can clog the pores. This is done by accumulating follicular hyperkeratosis – increased keratin production in the hair follicles. Over time, this may lead to blackheads, milia, sebaceous hyperplasia and clogged follicles. These symptoms do not always transpire quickly; it may take months of using a comedogenic product before it becomes obvious. Each person’s skin chemistry can determine the degree of an ingredient’s comedogenicity; therefore, it is highly mutable between people. One person may not react, while another may have disproportionately clogged pores in just a few short weeks.

Even ingredients not typically comedogenic can create havoc depending on our exclusive skin enzymes. Human sebum is inherently comedogenic, so even if you are prone to clogging and try to avoid all comedogenic ingredients, it is not certain protection against blackheads.

Some ingredients that may be comedogenic are petroleum derivatives, cocoa butter, oleic acid, sodium lauryl sulphate, coconut oil, wheat germ oil, palm oil, linseed oil, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl isostearate, butyl stearate, myristyl myristate, decyl oleate, octyl stearate, octyl palmitate, Isocetyl Stearate, propylene glycol-2, lanolin and coal tar derivatives. It is important to be aware that a product containing a comedogenic ingredient may not be a bad product choice for someone who is not prone to acne and blocked pores.

Comedogenic list inconsistencies are based on numerous elements. First, depending upon the component strength of that ingredient within the formula is vital. A formulation is not only a sum of its parts – component combinations can make a comedogenic ingredient into a non-comedogenic ingredient and vice versa.

Secondly, the process in which a component is extracted and treated plays a role.

Third, the source of the raw material can affect its rating.

Although comedogenicity is not an exact science, there are points to be aware of to help reduce the adverse effects of a product.

1. Please read the ingredient index list on the back of the bottle or packageing and compare it with the comedogenic list
2. Ensure shampoo and conditioner are thoroughly rinsed from your hair and keep it tied back at night to help reduce the leave-in residue pressed into and against the skin.
3. Oil-free does not mean it is non-comedogenic
4. Do not leave makeup on the skin overnight. Instead, ensure cleansing and toning with gauze and toning lotion occurs. For optimal results, cleansing and toning is done morning and night, followed by serums and treatment creams prescribed by your skincare professional.
5. Using either retinol, mandelic, glycolic, lactic or BHA serum at night can assist with skin refinement and decongesting the skin

In-clinic treatments can help remove/reduce blockages in the skin. One of the most effective treatments is the Skin Classic, also known as Diathermy. It is an effective and affordable non-laser treatment for minor skin imperfections such as blackheads, milia and sebaceous hyperplasia. Diathermy will dehydrate the oil and reduce or remove the blockage when related to skin blockages. Treatments are relatively quick, with little discomfort, and provide instantaneous results with no anaesthesia and healing times ranging from 5 to 10 days to a few weeks for larger skin conditions. Best results are achieved when used in conjunction with a prescribed skincare routine to ensure the blockages are not reoccurring.

Many factors can lead to comedones, milia and sebaceous hyperplasia, including the skin’s natural oils, dead skin, makeup or other products becoming lodged in the pore. Do your homework with the ingredient index and follow a prescribed skincare programme, and the risk of blockages in the skin will be reduced.

Here is a link to a great article

For other related posts see the links below

Shining the light on Hyperpigmentation

The Lymphatic System and the Skin 

Do Men & Women Have Different Skin?

by Sue Carroll | Jul 13, 2022 | Uncategorized

Men vs Women Are They Different?

Do Men & Women Have Different Skin? Our largest organ, the skin, has many similarities between men and women, but there are also some key differences. Men’s skin is recognised as different from women’s by the top skin care companies worldwide.

Hormones will always be the main difference between men and women, which is the first step to explaining the differences in men’s skin. The androgens, particularly the hormone testosterone, attach to the receptors in the dermis and epidermis, creating noticeable differences in the male skin physiology.

Essentially there are six primary differences between men’s and women’s skin.

1. Men have slightly oilier skin than women. This is because their sebaceous or oil-producing glands are smaller, but their skin has a higher secretion of sebum. Oilier skin can be more prone to open pores, blemishes and acne. Considering this, men’s skin care products, starting with their shaving system, will factor this in to offer more balance for sebum production.
2. Men have more facial hair than women, which is more coarse and tough. When choosing a shaving protocol, consider both the condition of the skin and the hair texture to help avoid pseudofolliculitis – aka ingrown hairs. This is where the coarse hair grows sideways in the skin follicle and is caused mainly by shaving. Where possible, the wet shaving method will produce a better and more consistent shave, reduce razor burn, skin irritations, and ingrown hairs and produce a clean and healthy appearance. Men’s skincare products that control infection and reduce cellular blockages will help to eliminate this problem.
3. Men’s skin is slightly more acidic and has an overall sweat composition that contains more AHA and lactic acid, contributing to the skin’s acidity. Washing the skin is the first step in any skin care programme. Most face washes or soaps men use have a very high pH level, undermining the skin’s natural defence system. The perfect face wash for men will clean, energise and maintain the skin’s natural acid mantle, producing healthier skin.
4. Most men experience more sensitive skin compared to women. This may be seen in the form of flaking, dryness and redness. Starting with the irritating effects of shaving, incorrect products and regime, and other damageing conditions such as wind, cuts, sun, the use of hot water, and chemicals will increase skin sensitivity.
5. Physiologically male skin has more active fibroblast cells compared to women. This results in an increase in collagen production, which means thicker skin. Thicker skin has many advantages, but it also has a downside whereby their skin may have more and deeper facial lines and more age spots. Men’s skin cells also carry fewer antioxidants, which can increase the number and depth of facial lines and pigmentation marks. When men look after their skin from an early age with sun protection and preventative repair serums and treatment creams, they can maintain skin tone, strength and a marked reduction in wrinkles.
6. The rate of skin cancer is also higher, particularly in Caucasian men. The most common form of skin cancer in men is melanoma, generally found on the neck, upper back, ears and face. For maximum sun protection, a good sunscreen with zinc oxide must be used daily as it will contain a naturally higher occurring sun protection factor.

Men are wanting result-oriented treatments and products, but they still want simplicity. Many of the time-proven, effective ingredients will deliver the same benefits to both sexes, but it is the levels within the formulas that make the difference. A scientifically formulated skincare range and treatment programme will be focused on five simple but critical skin laws: cleanse, exfoliate, tone, restore and build and protect.

Reduce Visible Signs of Aging with Collagen

by Sue Carroll | May 18, 2022 | Uncategorized

Collagen Reduces Visible Signs of Aging

There are three main fundamental building blocks to sustain the skin and reduce the observable signs of ageing. These are Collagen, hyaluronic acid and calcium. The most common and plentiful of our bodies’ proteins is Collagen.

Collagen is manufactured in our bodies by combining different amino acids or building blocks from the protein found in our food. One of the primary purposes of Collagen is to deliver structural scaffolding for our various tissues to allow them to stretch while still preserving the integrity of the tissue. While a diet rich in Collagen can help balance the signs of ageing in the skin, it is also important it for bone health, nails and hair.

The loss of Collagen is one of the most significant contributors to our observable signs of ageing, such as sagging, dull and wrinkled skin. When our collagen levels are heightened, our skin will be firm, smooth and soft because collagen permits skin cells to revitalise and repair themselves continually. By the time we reach our 80s, we have approximately four times less Collagen than when we were in our youth.

Regardless of your age, making healthy, youthful skin is harder to attain when certain lifestyle and environmental factors also harm your collagen production. Factors that can slow the body’s ability to manufacture Collagen may include:-  hormone imbalances, impaired thyroid function, overwork, processed foods, fluoridated water, pollution and dust, hydrogenated cooking oils, nutritional deficiencies, radiation, excessive sun exposure, stress, sugar, poor liver or kidney function, lack of both sleep and exercise.

Health advantages provided by collagen supplementation include:

• Deeper sleep and serotonin release due to its glycine content,
• Better blood clotting and wound healing,
• Decreased joint pain and stiffness,
• Improved gut health and digestion,
• Improved blood pressure and Reduced cardiovascular harm,
• Better glucose tolerance
• Reduced inflammation and oxidative stress and therefore having a positive impact on the health of your skin.

While 28 different types of Collagen are known scientifically, most supplements will contain 1 or more of the 5 most commonly known collagen types:

• Type 1 – makes up about 90% of the Collagen in our body. Nearly all tissue contains Type 1 collagen, including bones, tendons, connective tissue, and cartilage, and it is most abundant in the skin. However, it degrades over time, becoming apparent with the appearance of loss of elasticity, fine lines and wrinkles.
• Type 2 – is found primarily in cartilage and provides the cushion for your bones and joints
• Type 3 – is often found alongside type1 Collagen. It assists with the hydration of our skin, creating cushion or plumpness within the second layer of skin, the dermis.
• Type 4– makes up the thin layer outside the cells, giving them their structure and is found in the skin, kidneys, liver and other vital organs.
• Type 5– helps form keratin cell surfaces in our hair and nails. It is also required to form the cells that create a pregnant woman’s placenta, which is the baby’s life support system inside the womb.

The best way to have beautiful, healthy skin is to work from the inside out. A balanced diet and lifestyle are imperative. Unhydrolised or less-denatured collagen supplementation made from grass-fed beef bones can be added to your diet with bone broth daily. Powdered collagen supplements are also popular and may be added to smoothies each day. A powder that combines both animal and marine Collagen is best. Other nutrients the body requires to synthesise Collagen are biotin (B7), zinc, vitamin C, copper and other trace minerals.

The next component to having healthy, Collagen supported skin is to stimulate your skin regeneration topically with in-clinic professional treatments, a twice-daily home-care regime and good-quality skincare products.

The best way to approach ageing and good health is to work on the inside and outside. The outcome is going to provide the best version of ourselves. Collagen anyone.

Beauty Buzz & Healthy Habits

by Sue Carroll | Mar 15, 2022 | Uncategorized

Beauty Buzz, Healthy Habits and Wellness

Having forced time off and working from home over the last two years has made more people think about their health and beauty issues. It is time to look at the body, mind, and spirit. The act of taking time to care for oneself is healing within itself.

Anti-ageing injectables still provide one of the best anti-wrinkle solutions for crows feet and the furrows between the brows. But, did you know they may also assist with reducing a gummy smile, provide a “lip flip” instead of having filler, and lessen the pursing action of the top lip, which creates the lipstick bleed.

Faces were front and centre with working situations on Zoom. The lips were another focal point where solutions are possible. As we age, there is a decrease in the volume of the lip, while lip borders become blurred, outer corners of the lips droop and vertical lines occur. Younger clients typically desire the over-exaggerated, extra plump look they see on social media. The older client normally wants soft, subtle volume with minimal projection. Often combining modalities with Botox, filler and resurfacing treatments will provide the optimum result.

Poor Lymphatic drainage is the cause of a lot of beauty and health issues in the body. Either manual lymphatic drainage or the use of a relaxing compression suit will assist with bringing fresh blood to the stagnant areas and will assist with removing toxins. Lymphatic drainage has a positive effect on collagen production and can be magnified when you are multitasking under either an LED or Bioptron light for extra collagen stimulation.

It’s that time of the year again when we are thinking about correcting the sun damage – hyperpigmentation and glycation wrinkles- we acquired during the warmer months. When you combine a cocktail of treatments that are designed specifically for your requirements your goals can be obtained. Even now in 2022, the message is still to combine correct skincare, laser treatments and chemical peels along with a healthy internal programme. A cookie-cutter approach is not suitable as we are all individuals with specific concerns.

There is always a debate about what diet provides the greatest health benefits. Is it a low carbohydrate, low fat, increased protein or intermittent fasting? Researchers at Yale University have identified a protein that may be harnessed to elevate human health when moderate calorie restrictions are adhered to. It has long been shown by a simple reduction of calories, and no specific diet, will have remarkable effects in terms of biology and shifting the immune-metabolic balance to a state that is protective of human health. As always, a strict diet change should be supervised by a nutrition practitioner.

Cryotherapy is a healthy addition to recover muscle strain and reduce inflammation within the body. This can be achieved in a number of ways including ice baths, cryotherapy chambers and cold showers using the Wimhof breathing techniques to receive optimum benefits.

Sugar intake increases the speed and degree to which the skin looks and feels older. This process is known as glycation. Sugar molecules in food attach themselves to proteins in the body, such as elastin and collagen. This will result in making the protein stiff and inflexible. Eventually, these end products make collagen rigid, and it will lose its ability to keep the skin firm and ultimately contributes to the ageing process. This process intensifies as we age. Again, nothing new, but after a challenging few years, it is a timely reminder that our diet helps our body function in a state of wellness or illness.

There is a greater focus in 2022 on wellbeing, feeling good, looking good and being the best version of ourselves we can be internally and externally. This road we are travelling is about adding small sustainable changes to one’s life and addressing the person as a whole.

Topical Sunscreens and a Healthy Summer

by Sue Carroll | Jan 6, 2022 | Uncategorized

Topical Sunscreens and a Healthy Summer

Many doctors and scientists agree that as much as 90% of all visible signs of ageing of the skin are caused by sun damage. Statistically, it is said that 50% of sun damage occurs before the age of eighteen. Antioxidants assist with battling the free radical damage, which is a by-product of normal skin function. This damage causes the skin to age and thinning of the fat pad under the skin.

First of all, we all need sun, but in moderation. Sun is important for our overall wellbeing and for our skin. Twenty minutes of sun exposure in the early hours of the day or later in the afternoon have an energizing effect, it is good for the soul and is a source of vitamin D,- D3 being critical for liver functionality. Tanning is the skin’s defence mechanism against injury and trauma. Unfortunately, when you burn your skin in the sun, even a little bit, the DNA records that insult forever and plays it back like a videotape for years to come. In other words, you age much faster than if you have never burned at all.

Topical sunscreens are broadly classified into 2 groups – chemical absorbers and physical blockers. Chemical absorbers absorb UV rays while physical blockers reflect UV rays. Physical Blockers such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are not absorbed by the skin. Instead, they sit on the skin’s surface, blocking UVA and UVB rays and act as a natural reflective shield. Sunscreen formulations labelled “SPF” only refer to UVB protection, while labels stating “Broad Spectrum SPF” protect against both UVA and UVB rays.

It is recommended to choose an SPF 30 if you plan to be outside for a longer period of time, as it will provide 97% protection from UV damage. You are still able to acquire a tan when using sunscreen as no sunscreen will block all UV rays. It is often thought that there is a massive protection difference between SPF 15 and SPF 50 when in reality there is only a 5% difference in coverage.

Conventionally formulated sunblock is often too greasy or heavy to wear daily. Hence most people will only wear it to the beach and skip it on a daily basis. Wrong! The sun mercilessly comes through car windows and windscreens and any reflective surface with the end result being potential skin damage.

After evaluating the type of sunscreen to use, it is important to look at the complete ingredient deck. A vast majority of formulations contain

chemicals that are dangerous to the skin and then when they are absorbed by the body, have been linked to a host of health issues and allergies within the skin and beyond. Formulas comprising more natural, antioxidant and mineral-rich ingredients will not only support the skin in maintaining optimal health but will also further enhance the UV protection benefits.

With antioxidants, you can’t have too much of a good thing. Not only are antioxidants vital in protection and prevention, but they are also important in fighting the signs of ageing, internally and externally. Getting these nutrients naturally from natures’ superfoods is always the best option, but topicals applied to the skin and internal supplements also help the skin. These include glutathione, vitamins A, C, E, bioflavonoids, polyphenols, resveratrol, and superoxide dismutase.

Whichever side of the chemical vs physical fence you sit on, when selecting the right protection for your skin, you need to think seriously about what will provide the best health benefit for the skin. I always like to say the best sunscreen is the one you will actually use. Keep in mind zinc oxide is an inorganic compound and an essential mineral for our bodies. This powerful mineral provides both broad-spectrum protection and plays an important role in cell production, promotes healthy skin and hair and boosts the immune system. Who doesn’t like a skincare ingredient that pulls double duty?

Mask Wearing Complications

by Sue Carroll | Dec 29, 2021 | Uncategorized

Mask Wearing Complications

There is a thought that we have more microbes on our body skin than we have human cells. The human skin provides the largest surface area for microbial growth and is host to millions of microbial organisms. The skin microbiome is dominated by members of 4 phyla: firmicutes, actinobacteria, bacteroidetes and proteobacteria.

There is a thought we should start perceiving the skin as an ecosystem composed of physical and living biological components occupying diverse habitats. When the skin’s microbiome is out of kilter, disruptions may occur resulting in an aged appearance, infections, skin disorders, reactive skin, redness and acne.

When it comes to the microbiome of the skin and mask-wearing there are 3 main factors disrupting the balance. These are friction, changes to the microbiome and an alkaline environment. These 3 factors are also seen in another common skin condition, nappy rash.

Friction from mask-wearing results in loss of the barrier function – which we discussed in last month’s article. Each day our skin endures the rubbing of our masks from talking and general moving throughout the day which results in the gradual sloughing of the outer layers of the skin. This is accelerated by the moisture on the skin from our breath. As the barrier of the skin is eroded, a greater amount of water is lost through the skin and it dries out and creates sensitivity, redness or an aged appearance. Remember to change your mask daily sometimes a few times a day if necessary. Also, review the quality of your mask. Friction may also be reduced by using a topical like Rhonda Allison’s Drop of Essence in your daily skincare routine. This emollient is plant-based which is also a good food source for a healthy microbiome.

Our skin is naturally slightly acidic on the pH scale, around 4.5-5.5. At this level, the skins barrier system functions optimally and the immune system is operating at an optimal level for healthy skin. The condensate of the breath has consistently been measured around a pH 8 – alkaline. When the skin is exposed to long periods of an alkaline environment with mask-wearing, it’s natural buffering, becomes overwhelmed and the skin starts to become unhealthy, and the microbiome and skin barrier is less effective. Ensure your skincare products at home are all pH balanced and suitable for your skin condition. These should be reviewed each season and perhaps more often in these challenging times we are living in, as stress also creates imbalances in the skin.

When we keep our skin cells healthy, we rely on external microbiotic life forms to work in harmony with and support our own healthy cells. These healthy cells form the human microbiome. The human microbiome is kept at the same slightly acidic level as the skin. As the skin becomes more alkaline the prevalence of overgrowths of various harmful kinds of bacteria and bacteria on the skin increases. Skincare products for home use and a healthy lifestyle both contribute to assisting a healthy skin microbiome which will in-turn assist with less irritation from mask-wearing.

Some of the benefits of a healthy and balanced skin microbiome are:

• Enhancing the skin’s ability to become and stay properly hydrated
• Visibly improving signs of pigmentation, ageing, dryness and reducing a dry, taught sensation
• Strengthening the skin’s surface against environmental threats and enhancing the skin’s natural defence
• Diminishing factors that trigger reactive skin
• Restoring a healthy pH balance to the skin’s surface

Looking after the microbiome of our skin is an extremely important consideration when it comes to caring for the health of our skin. As a result of preventative measures for Covid-19, our mask-wearing has benefits but it also comes with side effects for our normally healthy skin. Come into, or call the Clinic and ask us how we may be able to assist you with your skin concerns, we are happy to help.