Is your Skin Tired & Lucklustre? Are you suffering from Maskme?

Each year Christmas is on the same date and we are always surprised that it is here again so quickly. What a year we have been challenged with, and our skin has stood by us through the good and the bad. With consistent mask-wearing and/or extra stress, our skin is showing what is happening on both the inside and outside. With family and friends time just around the corner, I have a few tips that will help make your skin glow for this special time of the year.
As a specialist skin clinic, we are seeing skin problems that have surfaced with the wearing of masks during this time to keep us safe.
Lower face rashes, irritation, dryness and mask acne – aka maskne – have people hiding behind their masks even more in order to conceal their distress regarding their facial skin. Quite often between incorrect skincare and makeup, poor cleansing routines, moisture being trapped by the mask along with exhaled carbon dioxide and allergens causing skin irritation. In most cases the answer is simple and may include changing your routine with a pH balanced cleanser, toning with gauze and toning lotion, applying mandelic serum and another that will soothe and hydrate the skin. Keep makeup to a minimum and change masks as often as possible to ensure they are clean and not harbouring bacteria.
During the summer months with extra heat and sun exposure, the skin tends to be more sensitive. As a general rule, the skin in summer requires more antioxidants, peptides and hydrating serums, and not the heavier treatment creams that protect during the winter. With increased UV exposure the skin is more susceptible to free radical exposure and this is where antioxidant serums can become powerful allies for healthy skin.
So many factors can affect the skin during periods of stress and hot summer days, such as lack of sleep, change of diet which might include excess sugar, alcohol and refined carbohydrates, water quality or quantity, and skipping the morning and evening skincare ritual. Stop, take a breath and review your lifestyle and homecare routine and see where positive changes can be made.
Exfoliation is one of the main keys to skin rejuvenation and the glow of health for your skin. Over exfoliation, however, is one of the worst nightmares the skin will negotiate. When we think our skin feels thick, congested and appears lacklustre, we just want to scrub it all away, this can lead us to compromise the protective barrier of the skin and create more problems with skin irritation, redness, infection and itchiness. I believe the use of gauze and a good pH balanced toning lotion morning and evening for most skins will be a major key to glowing, healthy skin which is then ready to accept the serums and protective treatment creams we apply. By implementing this step the serums and creams you use will then be more effective and provide you with their value for money as they then stand a chance to work the way they are meant to work.
Your skin priorities, I believe are:
1. Lifestyle (food and water quality/quantity, sleep, exercise, medication)
2. A good and regular home care routine.
3. In-clinic treatments. Without having number 1 and 2 in good shape, you will never get the full benefits of the money and time you spend in a Clinic with professional treatments. A few of the relaxing and no downtime treatments that can assist with bringing your skin back to its rejuvenated self are JetPeel, Oxygen Infusion and Microdermabrasion with hydrating mask treatments.
Skin Inspiration is always happy to assist with revamping homecare systems that help you in achieving and maintaining a healthy complexion. Frontline workers with maskne can receive digital reviews and complimentary advice during December – email 3 photos – front on and each side of your face with your concerns to info@skininspiration.com.au

Summer’s Knocking on the Door – Time to get you Glow on

Summer’s Knocking on the Door – Time to get you Glow on
Along with our great outdoor lifestyle comes the ravages of the Australian sun and hyperpigmentation in all its forms. With summer knocking at our door, there is still time to reduce last year’s brown spots before adding to those we will acquire this year.

There are three main types of pigmentation.
Epidermal where the pigmentation is close to the surface of the skin and is light brown
Dermal, where the brown marks appear more solid, is usually deep brown and ashen grey
Mixture where both levels are usually dark brown

There are many causes of hyperpigmentation which may include: PIH (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, Pregnancy (melasma), Birth Control Pills, Long Term Sun Exposure, Estrogen (HRT), Razor Bumps, Acne, Severe Sun Burn, Eczema, Chemical Irritations, Rashes, Abrasive Scrubs, Surgical Procedures, Perfume Sprayed on Sun Exposed Skin, Certain Prescription Medications, Picking, Insect Bites, Scratching, Chicken Pox and Trauma to the Skin. As you can see there are many varied reasons for hyperpigmentation, but they all lead to the same outcome where we have aging brown marks on both our face and body.

Melanocytes are cells in our skin that produce melanin, or pigment and these are located deep within the skin. It would be perfect if the colour or pigment was produced evenly across our skin but given the stimulants mentioned above aggravating our melanin, this is not usually the case.
My philosophy for treating hyperpigmentation focuses on five main areas to help achieve a luminous, radiant glow for our skin. These are: *Surface Exfoliation, *Suppress Melanocyte Activity, *Treatment, *Cellular Repair and Protection, *Lighten and Brighten.

With the assistance of gauze, toning lotion and or surface exfoliation, skin cells are sloughed off, revealing a brighter complexion. Some of the key ingredients in these products are Retinaldehydes, Mandelic Acid, Flower Acids and AHA’s and BHA’s.

To reduce existing hyperpigmentation superior brightening agents in skincare products will include Daisy Flower Extract, Kojic Acid, L-Arbutin, Resveratrol and Niacinamide all of which assist in reducing melanocyte activity. This in turn will improve skin clarity and even out the skin tone.
Treatments to help reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation may include, progressive, mid-depth and deep peels, Intense Pulsed Light (IPL), Fractional Laser, Skin Classic Dyathermy, Nano Fractional Laser and Tixel, or a combination of these procedures.

When our skin is under attack from any of the causes of hyperpigmentation, cellular breakdown occurs and cellular repair is much needed. This can be in the form of internal nutritional food and supplements (including the antioxidants Vitamins A, B and C) and external product application (which include ingredients such as reparative stem cells like Gardenia, Swiss Apple, Edelweiss, Vitamin C and B). By incorporating a natural physical sunscreen – zinc and titanium dioxide- to our everyday skincare regime, the skin has a natural shield of protection against future attacks. It is important to note regular 3-4 hourly application of sunscreen is required and even then we can still obtain a tan.

To assist with lightening and brightening our complexion the skin may benefit from the infusion of Vitamin C, Mandelic and Phytic Acids, and Plantain Leaf extract. In-Clinic skincare treatments are like the boot camp for the infusion process of these ingredients and it does not mean you have to suffer to be glowing. The treatments are performed regularly and provide radiant skin and you leaving more relaxed – a great prescription for healthy, radiant skin.
We live in “a sunburnt country” and this means we need to be vigilant all year round with our skin/sun protection. A healthy diet for internal support and sun protection (sunglasses, sunscreen, sun hat, long sleeves) and skincare supporting cellular repair and melanin suppression will all assist with the necessary external support. The result will allow us to Get Our Glow On.

Not All Superheroes Wear Capes

Healthy, radiant skin requires a combination of many pieces of the health jigsaw puzzle working synergistically, internally and externally. Externally one of the major players to assist with producing healthy skin is exfoliation, which involves both mechanical and chemical exfoliation. The various methods of exfoliation are one of the superhero steps of skincare.
It is estimated we shed on average one million cells every day. The cell turnover process occurs typically every 28 days up to the age of about 30. After this time depending on health challenges, age, lifestyle, medical conditions, immune dysfunctions and overexposure to the sun, this cycle may be increased to about 50 days. When the skin is unable to shed dead cells efficiently a myriad of problems may occur including a dull complexion, skin disease, acne, asphyxiation, aging, and uneven texture and tone.
Exfoliation is a natural process of the skin, but when age, compromised health and environmental conditions slow this natural process down, it is time we assist with chemical and mechanical exfoliation used in perfect unison.
Correct exfoliation stimulates the skin and cell turnover begins the regenerating process and lifts dry dead cells. The 2 primary, but very different methods of exfoliation are mechanical and chemical.
Mechanical or physical exfoliators, scrub away dead skin cells by abrading corneocytes from the surface of the skin. Mechanical exfoliators used at home may include scrubs (diatomaceous earth, jojoba beads, pearl powder, bamboo and pumice), shaving, dry body brushing and my absolute all-time favourite gauze squares with a toning lotion. Gauze is my superhero when it comes to mechanical exfoliation. After removing your cleanser use a gauze square and apply enough toning lotion to make sure the pad is damp and start to massage the face, neck and décolleté with circular movements. I recommend 1 minute in the morning and 2 minutes at night. This will stimulate the circulation, remove the last traces of makeup, cleanser and dry cells leaving the skin refined, clean and glowing. The skin is now ready for the next step, applying serums, ensuring they will be absorbed efficiently. In-clinic treatments for mechanical exfoliation may include microdermabrasion, JetPeel and Dermaplaning.
Chemical exfoliation may include enzymes or acids. These exfoliators work by digesting the stratum corneum and break down the surface cells and glue holding the cells together. Chemical exfoliators include retinol, salicylic acid, TCA, Jessner, pyruvic, phytic and AHA’s (Alpha hydroxy acid). AHA’a may include glycolic, lactic, tartaric, and mandelic acids. Enzymes also act as chemical exfoliators. These may include bromelain, pepsin, and papain. My favourite superheroes in the chemical exfoliation category would have to be Vitamin A and Mandelic Arginine. Mandelic Acid is a chemical exfoliant derived from bitter almonds that are highly beneficial in treating acne, irregular pigmentation, and photoaging. With the addition of arginine, the results are pushed to the next level. Arginine is one of the 20 main amino acids, promoting collagen synthesis, accelerating wound healing and allows for a slower and more uniform penetration into the skin. Vitamin A in the form of retinyl palmitate/retinoic acid is highly involved in the repair and rejuvenation of the skin. An initial strategy for skin rejuvenation is to improve the vascular integrity of the skin. This allows the skin to react more effectively to other forms of rejuvenation stimulation. The skin must have the materials, the oxygen and the energy to perform the desired processes to produce a refined and healthy appearance. In the clinic, chemical exfoliation may include progressive, medium depth or deep peels or a combination of both mechanical and chemical techniques.
Exfoliation is a definite superhero in skin rejuvenation. Over exfoliation can have adverse effects on the skin too, so it is imperative to have a professional consultation where you can be advised on the most suitable type of exfoliation for your skin condition and your goals both at home and in-clinic procedures.

Get Skin Fit This Spring

After months of cold, spring is finally here. Seasonal changes bring a different temperature, wind, UV exposure and humidity, all of which affect our largest organ, our skin, which needs to respond accordingly. Spring is an inspirational time for our skin to begin its adjustment from cooler winter weather and prepare for the hot summer days which are just around the corner. It is the perfect time to renew, rejuvenate and to get our glow on, but we need to assist our skin with this process.
Hibernating and covering up during winter has come to an end. Exfoliation for our facial and body skin is one of the first steps towards skin fitness for spring. If you can imagine the skin with a layer of plastic wrap covering it, nothing goes in or out efficiently. The surface dryness needs to be gently exfoliated, allowing lighter, hydrating serums and creams to penetrate effectively. Our facial skin responds well to using gauze squares and toning lotion morning and night. This technique when used correctly will slough off the last traces of cleanser, makeup and dry skin. When using any type of exfoliant, make sure it has gentle jojoba beads so the skin is polished and not scratched, revealing healthy, radiant skin and not a traumatized, red surface.

Dry body brushing, for the body skin, is one of the most simple and useful practices that can be achieved at home daily before showering. This simple treatment provides a vast array of benefits that assist with the skin’s natural detoxification process. Dry brush exfoliation stimulates lymph and blood flow while eliminating the dry dead skin cells to help reinforce your immune system and improve the skin’s ability to remove toxins. Also, dry body exfoliation can diminish cellulite by helping to break up the toxic deposits held within fatty tissue, stimulate the oil glands providing the important oils to keep the skin healthy and finally, stimulate the creation of new cells to help in an overall tightening and regeneration of the skin.

Transitioning from winter to spring, our moisturiser and serums need to be switched to something a little lighter. During the cooler months, our skin will be needing heavier oils and treatment creams, while at the start of spring we need to look towards hyaluronic acid formulations which are lighter, less congesting and more easily absorbed. Other active ingredients that are complementary to our skin in spring will contain Vitamin C, growth factors, peptides, essential fatty acids, and a cocktail of multivitamins.

A few other simple tips for skin fitness during spring might include
1. Falling in love with a tinted sunscreen that will protect, hydrate and give the skin a gentle glow.
2. Treating yourself to a JetPeel or Microdermabrasion Clinical treatment to give a thorough exfoliation and hydration experience
3. Spring clean both your makeup and skincare cabinets. Clean brushes and sponges every week and either dry with a hairdryer or sit on a window ledge in the sun to dry. Check expiry dates, and anything that has not been used for 6 months discard. Old products can host a build-up of bacteria, leading to clogged pores and dull skin.
4. With warmer weather change your diet to include lighter fruit and vegetables and an increase in water consumption
5. Warmer weather also means an increase in oil flow for our hair and skin, so changing your pillowcase at least every other day is advantageous.

Anyone can have beautiful skin. It is not just about your DNA, it is about your skincare routine morning and evening and being diligent with this. Spring is the perfect time to be skin fit, being healthy on the inside and outside, changing our thinking to envelop the positive side of life and choosing to be the best version of ourselves.

Decades of Difference

When we say skin rejuvenation, we automatically think of our face. We believe others only look at our face, but this could not be further from the truth. If we do not treat the body skin, its circulation and contouring there is a distinct possibility of decade disconnect. In short, the face will look one age while the rest of our body looks as if it comes from a totally different decade. We are an overall package and winter is the perfect time to rejuvenate the skin on both our face and body.

A young male client said to me the other day, he knows a “cougar” when he looks at her face and then her hands and arms. How perceptive of him, who would have thought. This is what I discuss with clients when we are looking at skin rejuvenation, the overall package and how important it is to invest in treating both the face and body.

There are so many treatments that can be used in both areas such as IPL (intense Pulsed Light), Tribella (a combination of Radio Frequency, Nano Fractional Laser and IPL) and Fat Freezing to name a few. As discussed in last months issue, the Tribella treatment uses 3 distinct modes of action and may assist in treating laxity, (a course is perfect to assist with tightening of the skin on the arms), fine lines and hyperpigmentation all on the same day. The treatment starts with using the relaxing DiamondPolar RadioFrequency (RF) and pulsed electromagnetic (PEMF) applicator and heats multiple tissue depths to start the collagen stimulation. This is then followed by the use of Intense Pulsed Light (IPL) which targets brown spots (an absolute must for the beach, golf and tennis lovers on the Northern Beaches). The final step in this combination therapy is skin resurfacing with the Versa hand-piece. This final step works using nano fractional technology working on uneven, crepey skin texture and fine lines. Normally 3 treatments are recommended, 4-6 weeks apart and can be used again after 3 months to continually boost the skin and maintain the results.

To assist with contouring the body fat freezing may be the answer. Fat freezing works like frostbite, it will freeze the fat but leaves the overlying skin intact and reduces the underlying fat. Fat cells can be compared to a balloon that expands and contracts. When you lose weight through diet and exercise, you do not lose fat cells but instead, the fat cells shrink. With fat freezing, on the other hand, the fat cells are removed permanently, the bulges are reduced and a smoother silhouette is the result.

When you think of filler being injected, it is normally into the face. The hands also show the signs of age by losing volume and this can be counteracted with the use of hyaluronic acid being injected. This can be boosted further with a combination of Tixel treatments and injectables to give greater longevity to the results.

Skin Care for the face and neck receives the greatest amount of press, but when decreasing the decades of difference between the face and the rest of the body, don’t forget to exfoliate, nourish, brighten, hydrate and protect the skin on the body. Dry body brushing is the first place to start as it will stimulate the lymphatic system and the natural oil supply of the body. This needs to be performed daily before showering. This is then followed with a brightening serum to assist with the reduction of brown marks from years of sun damage. An absolute must is body cream that will both hydrate and regenerate with either/or glycolic acid or Vitamin A and thereby improving the texture of the skin. During the day always protect the skin with at least a 30+ sunscreen.

To ensure there is no apparent difference of decades between the face and the rest of the body, it is far easier and less expensive to maintain the body appearance once and you have it in check. If you are interested in rejuvenating your face you should consider the rejuvenation of every part of the body that is exposed.

The Great Indoors

The last month has certainly been a change to our everyday lives none of us had planned for. I for one assumed things may change, but probably not to the extent they have now. So many of my clients are reaching out asking for assistance to upscale their home care skin regime. Most of us have a little more isolation time, and we are focusing on who and what is important to us and skin has certainly been one of those high on the priority list. This month I will focus on some extra home care tips to add and those to avoid for healthy skin.
Hand washing has never been more important than now. The first thing to consider is a hand wash that will not strip the natural oils from the skin. If this happens the skin is open to irritation, dryness, itchiness and bacteria entering creating an infection. Two hand washes we recommend are the Naturally European Verbena or Milk and the AHAVA Hand and Body Wash. Both ranges are pH balanced, and will not strip the natural oils but will effectively clean the skin. Once dried, your hands need to be nourished with either AHAVA Dermud Cream, or if there is an open wound the ASAP Silver Hand Cream will both protect and treat an infection with the silver which is considered to be one of nature’s strongest natural antibiotics.
So many of us are wearing face masks for extra protection. We have all seen photos of our health care workers, first responders, and those most at risk, with face rashes, bruising and skin irritations, due to prolonged mask usage. At Skin Inspiration, we have coined the term Skin Rehab for these conditions, where the skin needs to be soothed, calmed and nourished. Our first go to rehab products come from the Rhonda Allison range and include the Arnica Therapy, Calming Skin Gel and Post Balm Ointment.
Being in isolation so many of us are sitting in front of our computer screens far more than we normally would. This means we are exposing our skin to blue light. The highest source of blue light comes from the sun, and being indoors with our screens will also be creating free radicals which will lead to damage to our DNA. This, in turn, will create inflammation, speeding up the breakdown of collagen and elastin. A good proactive cocktail of serums will include a C Peptide, MVC, Growth Factor and Sea Gems morning and night with Pevonia Collagen or Elastin Cream as the final layering.
To boost the radiance of the skin we can perform Skin Needling with a serum cocktail of Growth Factor, Hyaluronic, Vitamin C Stem Cell and Vitamin A every other day. For that extra WOW follow this with a BIO Cellulose Face Mask and infuse the naturally hydrating and soothing ingredients of the mask with a Galvanic Infuser. This will infuse all of the water-based ingredients far more efficiently than if the mask is left sitting on the skin. The BIO Cellulose Mask can be used once a week, while the Galvanic Infuser can be used each day to infuse your serums, providing a healthy, radiant reflection when you look in your mirror. Even when you return to your Clinic for your regular treatments these home care extras will boost any professional treatment you have, giving longer-lasting results.
With more time on the internet don’t believe everything you read. With a myriad of products out there, they are being touted to remove pimples, wrinkles, bunions, boils, cellulite, fat and grey hair, all in one use. Most Clinics are providing either online or phone consultations where you can check what you should be using in a time of stress, where your skin may be exhibiting unusual outward signs that you have not seen before.
Please be assured we are there to assist and provide support, so reach out over the phone or online. Aestheticians are professionals with greater knowledge and professionalism than you will find online, they are ready to provide valid, helpful information. With the big change we are experiencing today, pressure can create diamonds if we are open to the possibilities.