Rethink Aging Skin

Skin Ageing is a complex biological process influenced by a combination of Internal (intrinsic) and External (extrinsic) factors. Natural aging is inevitable, however premature aging, which is usually caused by extrinsic factors, is not. In this article, I will look at new information provided by Matoyla Kolaras from Skin Factors, Australia.
While aging signs of internal organs cannot be seen, the skin’s outward expression provides the first obvious marks of the passing of time. If life is about to change, the skin is proof of that change. The fact remains that good, healthy-looking skin, and beauty, is still considered one of the principal factors representing the overall perception of well-being in people. In order to best treat, reverse and prevent further premature aging, there are some new players in this arena to be aware of when reviewing the multi-faceted processes that occur in the skin as we age.
The healthy pH of the skin is between 4.1 and 4.8, much lower than once thought. The pH of men’s skin is more acidic than women’s. The acid mantle plays a crucial role in skin integrity and cohesion (working with the skin’s own building blocks such as ceramides, cholesterol, enzymes and sweat, to enable the epidermis to stay balanced), immune function (normal healthy skin can resist acidic/alkaline aggression to some degree). As the skin ages, usually between 50 and 80 years of age, the pH increases, resulting in an impaired barrier, poor skin cohesion, defective lipid processing, reduced resistance to pathogens, increased sensitivity to treatments and products, increased likelihood of inflammation and disease, and reduced response and repair to injury. The news is not all bad as the simple solutions consist of using pH balanced cleansers and skincare products, having regular monthly facial treatments with the addition of an acidic exfoliator and low pH products, and home care products that support the acid mantle’s healthy flora such as probiotics.
The major age-related change is the increasing lack of bonding of Hyaluronic Acid (HA) to water. In younger skin the water is bound to HA and other proteins, while in older skin most of the water is bound to itself, known as tetrahedron or “bulk water”. As a result, collagen and elastin become harder and stiffer, together they can obstruct the passage of nutrients and waste between cells. Therefore, this lack of interaction between water and surrounding molecules may explain that although water content remains stable in older skin, it is often dry, withered and of poor quality. The solutions to these problems consist of identifying the difference between dehydrated and lipid deficient skin, what has caused the TEWL (transepidermal water loss) ie products, treatments, lifestyle and environment, and to use home care products containing hyaluronic acid and essential fatty acids.
Many of the symptoms we see in the aging of the skin and body are directly attributed to a decrease in hormones particularly estrogen and androgen. This can result in a decrease in sebum production, and the skin’s ability to retain moisture, thus leaving the skin prone to lipid dryness, dehydration (TEWL) and itchiness. The possible solutions are:
using a lipid-rich product nightly as the last product over serums to lock in moisture while allowing the skin to repair itself overnight; look for products with ingredients that contain hormone-like effects to ease the symptoms of hormonal reduction such as black cohosh and DHEA; use products with ingredients that will target epidermal lipid synthesis which will ease dryness such as Omega 3, 6,&7, ceramides, squalene and Shea butter.
While natural aging is genetically determined, extrinsic aging can be prevented. Aesthetic treatments and home care can contribute to healthy skin aging not only by trying to erase time vestiges in the skin, but by also playing a significant part in prevention, regeneration, and delaying of skin aging. The desired therapeutic anti-aging effect of the skin is a continuous, step by step process that must also explore inner health as well as skin health to achieve long-lasting and positive changes.

2020 – A New Decade – A New Better Version of You

2020 is the Chinese year of the White Metal Rat. Unlike 2019, the year of the Earth Pig, which had us stuck in the mud, the year of the White Metal Rat marks fresh hope, new excitement and new beginnings. This is the time of tremendous optimism if we choose to act upon that which lies in front of us. The new year starts with reviewing that which no longer serves us well, eliminating those who are not positive in our lives, and the setting of goals to make our everyday experiences the best they can possibly be. This usually consists of working on body, mind and spirit.
When we are born, we were endowed with amazing talents and gifts. These are intended to assist us with discovering the genius within ourselves and allow us to be the most exceptional person we can be in our lifetime. Behavioural scientists have found that optimistic people, in general, are more preserving and successful in life. Some positive activities to start each day with may include:
Improve cognitive ability by increasing mental productivity
Find solutions by improving the ability to enhance creativity
Each time a negative thought comes into our conscious mind, replace it with at least three things we are grateful for
Speak to ourselves positively and lovingly. Just think before having negative thoughts about ourselves, “would I say this to my best friend?”. The answer is no, so why sabotage and degrade ourselves
Start each day with a 5-minute positive thought or meditation
Negative thoughts make us more depressed, slow our creative ability, and inhibit our ability to connect with others. Which sounds more appealing, positive or negative?
Once we are on track mentally and spiritually, we are then able to focus on being the best version of ourselves physically. This does not mean being a different version, just the best version. The best version of ourselves may include adding exercise to our daily routine. This might be something as simple as a walk-in nature or practising our flexibility in order to be able to bend, stretch and remain flexible in all areas of our daily life.
We can also refresh our diets which might be to include either a balanced diet, keto, paleo, gluten-free or vegan. There is a rise in wellness nutrition and a huge surge in understanding being well on the outside firstly must involve being well on the inside. This might mean a visit to a naturopath, dietician or wholistic practitioner to assist us with ideas for what is the best fit for each of us, as we are all individuals and one size does not fit all.
Once the health jigsaw puzzle is coming together with the above areas, we can then focus on how we can be the best outward version of ourselves. This might mean consultation with a skincare professional who can assist with something as simple as having radiant, healthy skin with both a new homecare regime and an in-clinic programme. Radio Frequency technologies are now standard tools in the skin rejuvenation arena. From our nose to our toes unipolar and bipolar technology may assist with non-invasive skin and tissue tightening, slightly invasive RF micro-needling to treat skin texture, tightening and scars. The new kid on the block for skin regeneration and infusion of active ingredients is called the Tixel. This is fractional skin rejuvenation using pure, natural heat with minimal discomfort, and the healing time is short. It will improve wrinkles, fine lines, skin discolouration, sun-damaged skin, skin tone and texture, age spots and acne scars. With new technology and products available each year, we are also able to combine modalities to assist with revealing the best you and not someone who does not even resemble who you truly are.
In 2020, the start of the new decade, it is an exceptional time to reveal the best version of YOU. We can all choose to live by choice, not by chance; be motivated not manipulated; to be useful and not used; to excel and not compete; choose self-esteem, not pity; and choose to listen to our inner voices and not to random voices of others. In other words, choose to be the best version of YOU.

Is Your Skincare Working for You?

New research has just emerged to suggest that women aren’t happy with their skincare. The findings demonstrate the need for a professional diagnosis of your skin which can be supported by cosmeceutical grade skincare for use at home.
The independent survey was released by nutraceuticals company Entity Health, which revealed most Australian women feel their skincare products don’t give the full results they claimed. The study surveyed a group of 1010 women and was designed to understand how they thought about the effectiveness of their skincare products for different skin concerns.
83% said that the products claimed better results than the ones they experienced. 34% admitted their skincare improved their skin’s quality. However, this leaves almost two-thirds saying skin conditions, including dryness, dullness, pigmentation or rosacea, were not improved.
With meaningful advances having been made in the skincare industry, women can consider options beyond topical therapies.
Inside-out methods, such as natural supplementation, are becoming increasingly accepted and taken up as an alternative method of addressing particular concerns such as skin spots, skin dullness and pigmentation.
The research also highlighted specific areas of concerns for different age groups, providing useful but surprising insight. 22% of under thirties and just 16% of over sixties wanted to treat dullness. 17% of under thirties were hoping for a reduction in pigmentation and 24% of those in their thirties hoping for the same, compared with only 10% of those in their fifties and over sixties respectively.
The response from this new research further highlights the absolute need for quality skin advice, thorough consultation, and accurate diagnosis that is easily understood, and above all, a clear differentiation between consumer versus professional-grade skincare. Clients and patients require education that will cut through the marketing hype, buzzwords and trends of consumer/supermarket products, which of course, as the research demonstrates, never live up to their claims. If you have suffered poor results at the hands of ineffective skincare, you are not alone. Great skin is a journey, not a quick fix, and just because an ingredient is trendy doesn’t mean it will work for you. Results are achievable with the correct products, or components, a sound understanding of their use and in some instances, in combination with clinical treatments.
In my professional opinion, with 35 years of experience in the aesthetic industry, clinical grade skincare products incorporate active compounds and intelligent ingredients in higher percentages that are not commonly seen in department stores and supermarkets. Ingredients like peptides, plant-based stem cells, growth factors, sophisticated antioxidants, Vitamin A’s and many more will assist in increasing collagen and elastin synthesis, reducing fine dehydration lines, wrinkles, redness, pigmentation, rough texture and help protect the skin from damaging environments.
Recommending a simple yet synergistic regimen will also help provide the results you are looking for. An active cleanser, an enzyme-based toning lotion, antioxidant-rich serum, rejuvenating nightly serum with alpha-hydroxy acids and Vitamin A, nourishing refined oil and physical-based sun protectant will not only support skin moving forward but will also help repair or improve existing damage.
As the findings suggested, great skin is a journey and damage will not be repaired overnight or with a single-use. When you think about how long it has taken to create the skin damage you have incurred, it will usually take longer than a minute to repair or improve this damage. When you purchase a product, you need to ensure the product is being used as prescribed and not left in the bedside drawer or bathroom vanity. Skincare needs to be supported with a healthy lifestyle internally and externally, and your desired results can be fast-tracked with professional in-clinic treatments. Begin your journey with professional skincare that has been prescribed for you and you will be on your way to attaining your skin goals.

Menopause and the Effects on skin

Menopause is not an illness, and it does not mean the end is approaching, you have still got as much as half of your life to go! It’s a fact of life, and every woman will go through menopause, usually in her early to mid-’50s. In addition to triggering symptoms such as hot flashes and mood swings, menopause can significantly affect your skin too, causing dryness, adult acne and even thin, translucent skin that is less than elastic.

When menopause occurs, the body experiences a drop in production of the female hormone estrogen. Not only does estrogen affect the whole body, but it also plays an important role in the health of your skin, promoting circulation, the production of collagen and a healthy glow.

A common symptom of menopause is drier than normal skin, due in part to a decline in estrogen which will then decrease collagen. Once hormone levels begin to dip, the oil glands are not stimulated in the same capacity as before, causing less oil to be produced and the skin to become drier. Often with menopause, the cholesterol levels rise, and statins like Lipitor are taken. There is cholesterol in the skin and statins can cause dehydration from the loss of lipids, resulting in very dry and itchy skin.

Dry skin and wrinkles go hand in hand. Since there is a decrease in estrogen and collagen production, which leads to dry and dehydrated skin, it’s no surprise that wrinkles begin to form or get worse around the time of menopause. When skin is dry it, it thins out because collagen levels are depleted and there is less moisture to keep it plump.

Once the skin is less able to retain moisture and produce an adequate amount of skin lubricating oil, the underlying fat layers begin to thin out. As facial fat starts to diminish, thinning of the skin can occur, which may cause it to take on a bluish tint and look translucent, thus calling attention to changes in the midface like dark circles and sunken cheeks. In addition, more mature skin tends to be pale, bruise more easily and may be more prone to allergic reactions and irritations.

It seems counter-intuitive that adult acne can occur as hormone levels taper off. But truth be told, acne is as common, although usually temporary, occurrence among women experiencing menopause. Menopausal acne occurs from increased levels of progesterone, which stimulates the sebaceous glands and results in excess oil, essentially overriding estrogen.

There are easy ways to keep your skin healthy during menopause. Keep your body internally and externally hydrated. Topically applying treatment creams can help hydrate the skin from the outside in, but it’s just as important to hydrate from the inside out. Omega-3 fatty acids, which can be found in foods like salmon and nuts, are absolutely vital to prevent the skin from becoming dry and itchy. And we all know that at least eight glasses of water a day are also essential.

Topically a retinol serum or cream may be used as it will help to address clogged pores and also stimulate collagen production and thereby increase the thickness of the skin. There are also many serums that may assist the dryness without leaving the skin feeling as if it is covered in axel grease. Collagen stimulating fillers such as Juvederm or Restylane may also assist by giving sunken areas and wrinkles a gentle and natural plumping appearance. This can only be performed by either a doctor or a nurse.

Menopause does not have to be the end of our skin’s health and radiance. Managed both internally and externally with the assistance of key professionals such as aestheticians, naturopaths, dietitians and doctors our skin can still reflect the youth we feel on the inside when we look in the mirror.

Your Winter Legs

Wake up your Winter Legs

Hidden beneath tights, socks, activewear and trousers for the last few months, our legs are about to be unveiled for summer. Dryness, itchiness, an extra dimple or two of cellulite, and a good dose of puffiness around the ankles are often what we are confronted with after having forgotten about our legs during winter. Start with a bit of me-time each day and quite quickly you will revive the tired, lacklustre appearance of your legs.
Our legs perform so many daily activities for us, including, walking, standing, bending and simply supporting the trunk of our body. Our leg muscles act as a second heart, and their movement helps blood flow upwards through our veins and heart. By having good blood flow and circulation of our lymphatic system it means we will have a healthy distribution of nutrients, oxygen, stable body temperature, and a balanced pH throughout our body, all of which assist the overall health of our body.
To assist in maintaining good leg health and to keep our legs looking good, there are a few simple home care tips and in-clinic treatments we can enjoy.
Avoid standing or sitting for long periods of time. Take a break, get up, move and improve your circulation with a little physical activity. Climb the stairs instead of taking the elevator, take a short walk, and set your watch to move around the house or office every 20-30 minutes
Keep your weight under control. Knees and hips are usually affected with osteoarthritis, which is linked to obesity. Varicose veins may also be a by-product of excess weight
Elevate your legs. This can be simply done when you are sitting in the lounge, lying in bed, or using a leg rest under your desk. If your legs are particularly tired and puffy perhaps after an exhausting day, lie on the floor with your legs stretched up the wall for as short a time as 5 minutes.
Stretching and exercising. To maintain good health, regular exercise keeps us healthy. To assist with good blood flow stretching after exercise is imperative for healthy legs. Swimming, walking, hiking and running are great exercises to improve both leg and body circulation. Step-ups, squats, lunges and calf raises are good leg sculpting exercises.
Enjoy a cool bath or shower. After a long day on your feet or post-exercise, a bath with Epsom salts or a cooler shower will be more beneficial for healthy legs rather than extended exposure in saunas or hot baths which will cause veins to dilate and induce swelling.
Wear compression stockings. Particularly when flying compression stockings will assist with compressing and supporting veins which will help to promote normal blood flow.
Drink water. Drinking at least one litre of water per day keeps the body hydrated and helps to flush out toxins from the body which can contribute to the appearance of cellulite.
Lymphatic Massage. Drainage of the lymph system whether it be manually with a hands-on massage or with the assistance of a pressotherapy system will be extremely beneficial to keeping the legs feeling and appearing more slender, reducing the appearance of cellulite along with the more rapid elimination of lactic acid build-up from exercise.
Dry Body Brushing. Each day before showering the addition of dry body brushing over the entire body and not just the legs will help to stimulate the lymphatic system, which helps rid the body of toxins. This, in turn, assists in the reduction in the appearance of cellulite. Dry body brushing will also stimulate the body’s natural oil flow and will reduce some of the superficial dryness of the skin.
Topical Nourishment. After dry body brushing and showering the application daily of a rich balm containing ingredients such as glycolic acid and vitamin A will reduce dry, itchy skin and stimulate the cellular turnover giving a hydrated and glowing appearance on the legs. This is also a good time to apply sunscreen when going outdoors or tanning milk.
Sixty different bones from your toes to your waist make up the legs. If you are diligent in taking 10,000 steps per day, you will walk 3,000km per year. Our legs perform many important functions every single day. Look after them internally and externally and they, in turn, will look after you.

Unsexy & Inconvenient – the women’s issues we don’t talk about

Over the years, the combination of nature and science has been evolving to improve women’s health and appearances: lasers, radiofrequency, PEMF (pulsed electromagnetic fields), Bioptron Light Therapy and other energy devices are helping pave the way for treatments that weren’t available even ten years ago. We seem more and more comfortable talking about treatments for fine lines, wrinkles, scar tissue or stretch marks. Finally, the focus seems to be shifting, and women are having more conversations about vaginal health, function and appearance.

Pregnancy and menopause can wreak havoc on our body, and the vagina is the one area that can bear the brunt of issues. So let’s start a conversation about some of the issues and technologies that can be used to effectively improve post-pregnancy, menopausal as well as cosmetic appearance of the vaginal area — no better place to start than with a gynaecologist, Dr Sonya Jessup. Dr Jessup is a respected leader in her area of medicine and is now working on the Northern Beaches to provide women with intimate health solutions. It is my pleasure to introduce Dr Jessup in this month’s article where she will provide some insight into ways women can lead full and healthy lives with vaginal revitalisation.

Dr Sonya Jessup BHB, MBChB, MReprodMed, FRANZCOG, ESAG

Over the years working as a Gynaecologist and fertility specialist, I have seen first-hand, many women experience incontinence, vaginal laxity and decreased sexual enjoyment following childbirth.

Their pelvic floor muscles have never quite recovered, despite pelvic floor exercises, to the extent that they now leak urine with coughing, sneezing and during exercise or getting up multiple times in the night to go to the toilet. Other women notice some bulging of the vagina and comment that either they or their partners notice that sex doesn’t feel quite the same.

For women going through menopause, these symptoms can be amplified. The decreased oestrogen leads to worsening stress or urgency incontinence and also a feeling of vaginal burning and dryness with sex. Some women develop or underlying conditions such as Genitourinary Syndrome of Menopause (GSM) that are unlikely to improve over time without treatment.

Many women, both post-birth and menopausal, simply put up with these symptoms, assuming that it is just something they need to live with – the cost of giving birth or just part of the journey of menopause. Others are unwilling to go to with options such as surgery, vaginal meshes or tapes which have had increasing negative publicity due to a number of cases with severe adverse reactions. So much so that many of these procedures are no longer allowed in Australia. Medication may be an alternative but may not be suitable for all women, such as those that have breast cancer, which is hormonally sensitive.

The good news is that there is now a whole range of non-surgical devices that provide treatment and relief for these issues. Not every method is suitable for every woman. It is essential to see a qualified gynaecologist with traditional and hormonal treatment experience and who is also skilled and practised with the newer laser, radiofrequency and electromagnetic devices.

For women today, no matter what your age is, you can now be proactive with your intimate health. There is no need to put up with incontinence, laxity or dryness. With the availability of new technologies and the advances in medical knowledge, problems that have prevented you from leading full lives with everyday activities can be overcome. By leading by example and being strong role models, we can make a difference in our own lives and those of our mothers, sisters, daughters and girlfriends. It is time to enjoy full, healthy lives and celebrate being a woman!