by Lee Stapleton | Jul 17, 2024 | Uncategorized
We all desire a clear and consistent skin tone. However, lingering hyperpigmentation is a constant barrier to achieving this. It impacts every skin type at every stage of our lives, especially when sun exposure, heat and prolonged UV damage are factors. The pleasing news is that with the proper homecare regime and in-clinic treatments, the brown spots can be reduced or removed completely. This will be a consistent programme including prevention and treatment.
Hyperpigmentation refers to areas of the skin with an abnormal appearance of pigment, resulting in darker areas of the skin compared to the rest of the complexion. There are 3 main types of hyperpigmentation: epidermal (surface is light brown and not quite as dense), dermal (skin is ashen-grey and a deep brown and appears more solid), and then a mixture (both of the above levels and is usually dark brown).
There are many triggers creating pigmentation (dyschromia) changes, as well as varying depths of damage to the skin. These types of changes in the skin may occur when melanocytes (colour-producing cells) are either over-stimulated resulting in hyperpigmentation, or they may be destroyed, resulting in hypopigmentation. The colour changes may also be an uneven pigmentation from procedures, picking or scratching. Melasma is denoted by more dense larger patches and is normally created with hormonal imbalance with estrogen and progesterone. Other causes may include birth control pills, HRT, PIH (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation), long-term sun exposure, razor bumps, heat, humidity, severe sunburn, eczema, chemical irritations, rashes, abrasive scrubs, medications, chicken pox, insect bites, surgical procedures, thyroid, and adrenal disorders.
One thing to keep in mind with most types of hyperpigmentation is our melanocytes are there for a reason, which is to protect the cell initially. We need this to help fight against the impact of the UV rays. After this protection process has taken place, the skin is now left with underlying damage which is seen in the form of pigmentation.
The two main factors stimulating hyperpigmentation are UV exposure and heat. Wearing an SPF of 30+ each day will assist with this protection. The best sunscreens for hyperpigmentation are typically all-mineral formulas. Chemical SPFs neutralize the UVA and UVB rays, while the mineral SPFs, create a barrier on top of the skin, blocking these factors and protecting it from infrared damage. A huge reminder, even when you wear your hat, sun protection and sunglasses and your face is covered, tanning on other parts of your body can still stimulate the melanocytes.
Hydroquinone is a well-known ingredient to treat hyperpigmentation. It is banned in many countries as it has been linked to possibly being carcinogenic. Our skin is very smart and may develop a resistance, or immunity to it, resulting in a very dark hyperpigmentation, which usually takes longer to reduce.
Other proven ingredients for use in both homecare and clinical treatments include the enzyme papain (from the papaya), and bakuchiol (a retinol alternative supporting the skin’s cellular renewal. When applied topically it encourages sloughing of overly pigmented cells, leaving skin looking renewed and more even),mandelic acid (a water soluble exfoliating alpha hydroxy acid made from bitter almonds and is generally tolerated well by most skin types with its larger molecular size and therefore slowing the absorption resulting in less irritation to the skin),tranexamic acid (will even out hyperpigmentation when melanin density is connected to sun damage. It is also safe to use through pregnancy), pyruvic acid (derived from the hibiscus and is both oil and water soluble and has the capacity to brighten the faster by encouraging the rapid cell regeneration), and niacinamide (a vitamin B3 product impedes the production of melanin as it is happening).
Some of the in-clinic treatments available include IPL(Intense Pulsed Light), Fractional Laser, Tixel, Q Switch Yag and herbal and chemical peels.
Protect the skin you are in; it is yours for a lifetime. Regardless of hyperpigmentation’s cause and its associated uneven tone and dark spots, it is essential in Australia to treat and prevent it on a regular basis. It is not a seasonal call to action, but instead a year-round commitment.
by Lee Stapleton | Jul 11, 2024 | Uncategorized
Skin rejuvenation is assisted by so many different treatment modalities such as Fractional Laser, CO2 laser, IPL, Q-Switch Yag, Radio Frequency Needlin and Skin Needling to name just a few. And then there is Tixel®.
Tixel® is not a laser, but an ablative (removing the top layer of skin) and non-ablative fractional skin treatment that will rejuvenate skin by stimulating new collagen to improve skin quality and will also target and treat acne and scarring.
Tixel® uses thermo-mechanical (heat) energy to evaporate tiny channels in the skin. This technology uses a titanium tip which is heated to 400 degrees celsius. The small and large tips contain tiny pyramids that pass over the skin, delivering short bursts of heat energy directly to the skin. This heat energy will firm the skin and refine the texture.
Tixel® can be used on all skin types, including those with a darker skin tone and hyperpigmentation. The energy settings can be reduced depending on your Fitzpatrick skin type, meaning the darker the skin the lower the setting, which in turn will mean a few more treatments.
From addressing fine lines and wrinkles to improving skin texture and tone, to treating active acne and scarring, the Tixel® offers extremely versatile solutions to a myriad of aesthetic concerns. When treating acne, the Tixel® can treat both active clusters of acne and acne scarring. When treating active acne, the heat assists with slowing the sebaceous oil flow and reducing infection. The temperature and the treatment for this particular procedure (treating the active acne) can be a little “spicey” but can be a positive alternative to medications in some cases. Depending on the severity of the acne, 3-4 treatments may be required, spaced about 2 weeks apart.
When treating acne scarring, again, depending on the severity of the scar tissue, a few treatments about 4 weeks apart will be required and must be combined with a clinical home care programme for optimum results.
The Tixel® treatment can also provide a rejuvenation technique by infusing active serums into the skin. Thousands of tiny microchannels are created and stay open for roughly 6 hours. During this time a take-home cocktail of customised serums is massaged into the skin every hour. This procedure is one of my all-time favourite treatments in the Clinic, without downtime. The skin may be superficially dry for a day or two post-treatment and then the skin glows and is well on its way to a more refined appearance. Everything from rosacea to hyperpigmentation can be treated easily. The rosacea has a redness-reducing cocktail massaged into the area and within a few days has begun to reduce in intensity.
Hyperpigmentation has tranexamic acid massaged in to reduce the discolouration of the skin. The infusion treatment has no downtime and no pain, just a radiant complexion.
The Tixel® treatment can treat any area of the body, face, neck, chest, back of hands and eye area. When the ablative settings are used, expect slight crusting for 4-5 days, along with dryness and a light pink colour kissing the skin. There is no peeling or blistering.
The eye area, both upper and lower areas, achieves a truly amazing result. Tixel® is often used with surgical blepharoplasty to refine the texture of the skin in this area. As the Tixel® is not a laser, the skin can be treated close to the lash line and the brow area.
With any Tixel® treatment, some people will see a result after 1 treatment, while others will require 3-5 sessions. The best results will be seen 4-5 weeks post-treatment.
Tixel® can be customised for the individual. When you are seeking a smoother, more revitalised complexion, Tixel® is definitely a treatment worth considering with less downtime than most lasers and clients with dry eye have reported experiencing improvement with this condition after a Tixel® Treatment.
by Lee Stapleton | Jun 11, 2024 | Uncategorized
It is that time of the year again when our skin lets us know the summer has been a little unkind. The telltale signs of hyperpigmentation are pretty apparent on our skin. One of the most effective ways to deal with this discolouration, skin dryness and skin renewal is with an in-clinic treatment using a peel.
Peels are available in various strengths and cocktail formulations, and the one suitable for you will depend on your skin condition or concern. A peel is a skin rejuvenation technique that usually contains enzymes, chemicals and herbs.
The idea behind a peel is to remove the damaged outer layers of dry, discoloured, and coarse skin from the skin’s surface. When the peel is applied, it stimulates the skin’s regenerative process. The results reveal a marked improvement in skin conditions such as fine lines and wrinkles, texture & tone of the skin, lightening & brightening the skin, increased blood circulation, softening scar tissue, strengthening the integrity of the skin, stimulating fibroblast cells resulting in new cell formation, hydration, reduction of pore size, clearing of blemishes, more balanced oil production and an overall healthier appearance of the skin.
There are four main types of peel intensity in the clinical treatment room.
- Progressive – This peel does not usually cause visible exfoliation. There may be superficial dryness for a few days post-procedure, and the skin will look refreshed and radiant. It can be experienced as a standalone treatment or in conjunction with treatments such as microdermabrasion. This mild peel can be carried out every 1-2 weeks for 3-6 treatments.
- Mid-Depth – exfoliation with this peel usually occurs within 3- 5 days post-procedure. This level of peel will usually turn brown before a gentle flake occurs. This rejuvenation technique is ideal for monthly use.
- Deep – the skin undergoes considerable peeling, almost like a snake shedding its skin. Two of the better-known deep peels are Cosmelan and the Deep Herbal Peel. The entire process can take 7-10 days and is usually repeated three times a year, depending on the skin condition or concern.
- Biochemical Peel -The peel you have when you are not having a peel. This is the new kid on the block from Europe. This avant-garde technique has no downtime, pain, heat or peeling – but you do need to do it in combination with Q-Switch Laser or IPL.
The biochemical peel incorporates active ingredients in its formulas, and its effectiveness has been proven by dermatological science. Using a cocktail of acid ingredients such as salicylic, lactic, malic, pyruvic, azelaic, mandelic, phytic, ferulic, hyaluronic, pure glycolic, citric, kojic and tranexamic, the results are boosted when done in combination with Q-Switch Laser or IPL. These ingredients are not new in the peel arena; the difference is in the percentage, pH and layering technique.
Factors required to review before having a peel include:-
- Home care and skin preparation are undertaken at least two weeks before treatment.
- Skin reactivity, thickness, and oiliness
- The time of the year and the intensity of the sun
- Your general health, including autoimmune disorders.
- The Fitzpatrick skin type is a guideline to determine how the skin might respond to a peel.
- The Glogau classification is also known as the wrinkle scale of photoaging. This will assist in determining the severity of sun damage in the form of discolouration and wrinkles.
Peels stimulate the formation of new, healthier cells, reviving the complexion. No matter your skin concern or the numerous peels and techniques, rest assured there is one that is just right for you.
by Lee Stapleton | May 11, 2024 | Uncategorized
Skin laxity is a common sign of ageing and can affect various areas of the body such as the face, neck, arms, legs or abdomen. It occurs when the skin loses its elasticity, resulting in a saggy, loose appearance.
Loss of skin elasticity may present as:
Fine lines and wrinkles: When skin loses its elasticity in the dermal matrix (second layer of skin), it is prone to fine lines and wrinkles. These lines can appear deeper and more prominent over time.
Jowls: As we age the bones tend to shrink, leading to the muscular layer (SMAS) and dermal layer to then droop and create the jowls.
Drooping Eyelids: As with the jowls, this drooping tissue affects the orbital area. Ptosis (the drooping of the skin of the upper eyelid) can be the result.
Crepey Skin: When the support in the dermal matrix is lost or declines, and the surrounding glycosaminoglycans (GAG’S), that provide the cushioning and the environment of collagen and elastin, this depletion leads to the skin having the appearance of thin, tissue-like skin.
Skin laxity is caused by a combination of intrinsic (internal) and extrinsic (external) factors that affect the skin’s structure and function. Some of the scientific causes are:
Age and hormonal changes where the collagen and elastin fibres, which provide support and elasticity to the skin, degrade over time, leading to thinning and sagging. Additionally, the skin’s ability to produce new collagen and elastin decreases with age.
Exposure to prolonged UV radiation from the sun damages the collagen and elastin fibres. This damage can result in the formation of wrinkles and sagging.
Certain lifestyle factors such as poor diet, lack of sleep, excessive alcohol, and smoking all add to oxidative stress resulting in the skin breaking down and not having the ability to regenerate.
Genetics can play a huge part in the loss of laxity in the skin, and this can happen earlier in some compared to others.
Other areas to affect loss of elasticity in the skin can be glycation, dehydration, significant weight loss and extreme temperature environments.
When choosing the most appropriate treatment for your area of concern there are several factors to review such as
- Different areas will respond better to one treatment rather than another, HIFU, RF, RF Microneedling and Plasma Fibroblast can provide more significant skin tightening for moderate to severe skin laxity, while microneedling will address fine lines and moderate skin laxity.
- Different modalities are better suited for specific areas of the body. HIFU and RF can be used on the face and body, while RF Needling and microneedling are primarily used on the face and neck. Plasma can be used on the face and body but is not suitable for all body areas.
- Depending on your timeline for your result HIFU and Plasma can provide more immediate results, while RF and RF Needling usually require multiple treatments.
- Your pain tolerance this also must be a strong consideration for the appropriate treatment.
- Budget is also a consideration. HIFU and Plasma Fibroblast are typically more expensive than RF, RF Needling and Microneedling.
What is the primary skin concern?
- moderate to severe laxity
- fine lines and wrinkles
- Mild to moderate skin laxity
Which area do you want to target?
- face and body
- face and neck
- face only
How soon do you want the results?
- Immediate
- within a few weeks to months
- over time with multiple treatments
How much downtime will you tolerate?
- no downtime
- some downtime
- little to no downtime?
What is your budget?
- high
- moderate
- low
It is so important to combine both in Clinic treatments, a good home care regime and a healthy lifestyle in order to achieve your optimum results.
by Lee Stapleton | Mar 11, 2024 | Uncategorized
Aesthetic practitioners are dedicated to enhancing your appearance and overall well-being through various treatments, home care products and recommendations. However, a few misconceptions and recurrent habits can impact the progress and efficacy of this close relationship. An honest collaboration between aesthetician and client will provide the best possible outcome for optimal skin health.
A survey in the medical aesthetic profession found a few of the most common areas where you, the client, can assist with a more positive outcome.
During the consultation, the aesthetician and the client must be completely transparent about what may be achieved and the desired outcome. We all see the social media before and after photos, and we all want a miracle in a jar, so to speak; this includes me. The results are ultimately determined by age, health, lifestyle and compliance with home care products and applications. Nothing lasts forever, even a facelift. Remember, our body is a continually aging machine, and “regular servicing” needs to be maintained.
After any treatment, please refrain from touching the skin immediately after. By doing so, the introduction of bacteria can disrupt the healing process. For injectable procedures, this can mean not touching the treated site (unless advised to, and only on clean skin with clean or gloved hands).
Do not expect immediate results, as improvement will vary depending on age, health and healing capacity. This applies to all injectables, laser procedures, skin needling and peels. The older we are, the slower the healing and rejuvenation time for the skin. Be patient and comply with your homecare instructions.
Do not overload on exfoliating procedures at home. Combining chemical exfoliants and mechanical exfoliants too often and aggressively can damage the protective skin barrier, leading to dehydration and eroding the youthful, plump appearance we all desire.
Just because your friend had the procedure and an excellent outcome does not mean the procedure is correct for you. While some treatments may be universal for most skin types, no two skins are identical. This is where the consultation process is required. While one person may require a fractional laser, another may be able to have an IPL for the treatment of colour irregularities and then may need a fractional laser or a course of skin needling to achieve their desired result.
When you arrive for a treatment where heat may be applied – possibly in the form of laser, radio frequency, RF skin needling or even a skin peel – and you have come straight from the gym, a run, hot yoga or even hot coffee – the skin will not be able to cope with the parameters the treatment requires for your desired outcome. If you are unsure of your pre and post-instructions, always call ahead and have them cemented in your thoughts so you and the clinic are aligned with achieving optimal results for your skin.
Always disclose any allergies and medical history, as there are often contraindications to ingredients and treatments. This also includes disclosing any injectable treatments, even if obtained at another clinic, as deep laser and RF treatments and deep massage can create a possible migration or dissolving of the ingredients. This also means if you have had prior treatments at another clinic in a close time frame. With this transparency, the outcome is always a more-than-desirable result.
Rapidly changing skin care products can irritate the skin and disrupt the healing process. Discuss with your aesthetician if you feel a product could improve your outcome.
Daily, we are preaching to use sunscreen, even on the cloudiest of days. Overexposure to the sun is the number 1 reason for skin ageing in this country.
When there is open and transparent communication between the aesthetician and the client, the desired result is so much easier to achieve.
