Not All Superheroes Wear Capes

by | Aug 17, 2020 | Uncategorized

Healthy, radiant skin requires a combination of many pieces of the health jigsaw puzzle working synergistically, internally and externally. Externally one of the major players to assist with producing healthy skin is exfoliation, which involves both mechanical and chemical exfoliation. The various methods of exfoliation are one of the superhero steps of skincare.
It is estimated we shed on average one million cells every day. The cell turnover process occurs typically every 28 days up to the age of about 30. After this time depending on health challenges, age, lifestyle, medical conditions, immune dysfunctions and overexposure to the sun, this cycle may be increased to about 50 days. When the skin is unable to shed dead cells efficiently a myriad of problems may occur including a dull complexion, skin disease, acne, asphyxiation, aging, and uneven texture and tone.
Exfoliation is a natural process of the skin, but when age, compromised health and environmental conditions slow this natural process down, it is time we assist with chemical and mechanical exfoliation used in perfect unison.
Correct exfoliation stimulates the skin and cell turnover begins the regenerating process and lifts dry dead cells. The 2 primary, but very different methods of exfoliation are mechanical and chemical.
Mechanical or physical exfoliators, scrub away dead skin cells by abrading corneocytes from the surface of the skin. Mechanical exfoliators used at home may include scrubs (diatomaceous earth, jojoba beads, pearl powder, bamboo and pumice), shaving, dry body brushing and my absolute all-time favourite gauze squares with a toning lotion. Gauze is my superhero when it comes to mechanical exfoliation. After removing your cleanser use a gauze square and apply enough toning lotion to make sure the pad is damp and start to massage the face, neck and décolleté with circular movements. I recommend 1 minute in the morning and 2 minutes at night. This will stimulate the circulation, remove the last traces of makeup, cleanser and dry cells leaving the skin refined, clean and glowing. The skin is now ready for the next step, applying serums, ensuring they will be absorbed efficiently. In-clinic treatments for mechanical exfoliation may include microdermabrasion, JetPeel and Dermaplaning.
Chemical exfoliation may include enzymes or acids. These exfoliators work by digesting the stratum corneum and break down the surface cells and glue holding the cells together. Chemical exfoliators include retinol, salicylic acid, TCA, Jessner, pyruvic, phytic and AHA’s (Alpha hydroxy acid). AHA’a may include glycolic, lactic, tartaric, and mandelic acids. Enzymes also act as chemical exfoliators. These may include bromelain, pepsin, and papain. My favourite superheroes in the chemical exfoliation category would have to be Vitamin A and Mandelic Arginine. Mandelic Acid is a chemical exfoliant derived from bitter almonds that are highly beneficial in treating acne, irregular pigmentation, and photoaging. With the addition of arginine, the results are pushed to the next level. Arginine is one of the 20 main amino acids, promoting collagen synthesis, accelerating wound healing and allows for a slower and more uniform penetration into the skin. Vitamin A in the form of retinyl palmitate/retinoic acid is highly involved in the repair and rejuvenation of the skin. An initial strategy for skin rejuvenation is to improve the vascular integrity of the skin. This allows the skin to react more effectively to other forms of rejuvenation stimulation. The skin must have the materials, the oxygen and the energy to perform the desired processes to produce a refined and healthy appearance. In the clinic, chemical exfoliation may include progressive, medium depth or deep peels or a combination of both mechanical and chemical techniques.
Exfoliation is a definite superhero in skin rejuvenation. Over exfoliation can have adverse effects on the skin too, so it is imperative to have a professional consultation where you can be advised on the most suitable type of exfoliation for your skin condition and your goals both at home and in-clinic procedures.

Get Skin Fit This Spring

by | Jul 17, 2020 | Uncategorized

After months of cold, spring is finally here. Seasonal changes bring a different temperature, wind, UV exposure and humidity, all of which affect our largest organ, our skin, which needs to respond accordingly. Spring is an inspirational time for our skin to begin its adjustment from cooler winter weather and prepare for the hot summer days which are just around the corner. It is the perfect time to renew, rejuvenate and to get our glow on, but we need to assist our skin with this process.
Hibernating and covering up during winter has come to an end. Exfoliation for our facial and body skin is one of the first steps towards skin fitness for spring. If you can imagine the skin with a layer of plastic wrap covering it, nothing goes in or out efficiently. The surface dryness needs to be gently exfoliated, allowing lighter, hydrating serums and creams to penetrate effectively. Our facial skin responds well to using gauze squares and toning lotion morning and night. This technique when used correctly will slough off the last traces of cleanser, makeup and dry skin. When using any type of exfoliant, make sure it has gentle jojoba beads so the skin is polished and not scratched, revealing healthy, radiant skin and not a traumatized, red surface.

Dry body brushing, for the body skin, is one of the most simple and useful practices that can be achieved at home daily before showering. This simple treatment provides a vast array of benefits that assist with the skin’s natural detoxification process. Dry brush exfoliation stimulates lymph and blood flow while eliminating the dry dead skin cells to help reinforce your immune system and improve the skin’s ability to remove toxins. Also, dry body exfoliation can diminish cellulite by helping to break up the toxic deposits held within fatty tissue, stimulate the oil glands providing the important oils to keep the skin healthy and finally, stimulate the creation of new cells to help in an overall tightening and regeneration of the skin.

Transitioning from winter to spring, our moisturiser and serums need to be switched to something a little lighter. During the cooler months, our skin will be needing heavier oils and treatment creams, while at the start of spring we need to look towards hyaluronic acid formulations which are lighter, less congesting and more easily absorbed. Other active ingredients that are complementary to our skin in spring will contain Vitamin C, growth factors, peptides, essential fatty acids, and a cocktail of multivitamins.

A few other simple tips for skin fitness during spring might include
1. Falling in love with a tinted sunscreen that will protect, hydrate and give the skin a gentle glow.
2. Treating yourself to a JetPeel or Microdermabrasion Clinical treatment to give a thorough exfoliation and hydration experience
3. Spring clean both your makeup and skincare cabinets. Clean brushes and sponges every week and either dry with a hairdryer or sit on a window ledge in the sun to dry. Check expiry dates, and anything that has not been used for 6 months discard. Old products can host a build-up of bacteria, leading to clogged pores and dull skin.
4. With warmer weather change your diet to include lighter fruit and vegetables and an increase in water consumption
5. Warmer weather also means an increase in oil flow for our hair and skin, so changing your pillowcase at least every other day is advantageous.

Anyone can have beautiful skin. It is not just about your DNA, it is about your skincare routine morning and evening and being diligent with this. Spring is the perfect time to be skin fit, being healthy on the inside and outside, changing our thinking to envelop the positive side of life and choosing to be the best version of ourselves.

Decades of Difference

by | Jun 17, 2020 | Uncategorized

When we say skin rejuvenation, we automatically think of our face. We believe others only look at our face, but this could not be further from the truth. If we do not treat the body skin, its circulation and contouring there is a distinct possibility of decade disconnect. In short, the face will look one age while the rest of our body looks as if it comes from a totally different decade. We are an overall package and winter is the perfect time to rejuvenate the skin on both our face and body.

A young male client said to me the other day, he knows a “cougar” when he looks at her face and then her hands and arms. How perceptive of him, who would have thought. This is what I discuss with clients when we are looking at skin rejuvenation, the overall package and how important it is to invest in treating both the face and body.

There are so many treatments that can be used in both areas such as IPL (intense Pulsed Light), Tribella (a combination of Radio Frequency, Nano Fractional Laser and IPL) and Fat Freezing to name a few. As discussed in last months issue, the Tribella treatment uses 3 distinct modes of action and may assist in treating laxity, (a course is perfect to assist with tightening of the skin on the arms), fine lines and hyperpigmentation all on the same day. The treatment starts with using the relaxing DiamondPolar RadioFrequency (RF) and pulsed electromagnetic (PEMF) applicator and heats multiple tissue depths to start the collagen stimulation. This is then followed by the use of Intense Pulsed Light (IPL) which targets brown spots (an absolute must for the beach, golf and tennis lovers on the Northern Beaches). The final step in this combination therapy is skin resurfacing with the Versa hand-piece. This final step works using nano fractional technology working on uneven, crepey skin texture and fine lines. Normally 3 treatments are recommended, 4-6 weeks apart and can be used again after 3 months to continually boost the skin and maintain the results.

To assist with contouring the body fat freezing may be the answer. Fat freezing works like frostbite, it will freeze the fat but leaves the overlying skin intact and reduces the underlying fat. Fat cells can be compared to a balloon that expands and contracts. When you lose weight through diet and exercise, you do not lose fat cells but instead, the fat cells shrink. With fat freezing, on the other hand, the fat cells are removed permanently, the bulges are reduced and a smoother silhouette is the result.

When you think of filler being injected, it is normally into the face. The hands also show the signs of age by losing volume and this can be counteracted with the use of hyaluronic acid being injected. This can be boosted further with a combination of Tixel treatments and injectables to give greater longevity to the results.

Skin Care for the face and neck receives the greatest amount of press, but when decreasing the decades of difference between the face and the rest of the body, don’t forget to exfoliate, nourish, brighten, hydrate and protect the skin on the body. Dry body brushing is the first place to start as it will stimulate the lymphatic system and the natural oil supply of the body. This needs to be performed daily before showering. This is then followed with a brightening serum to assist with the reduction of brown marks from years of sun damage. An absolute must is body cream that will both hydrate and regenerate with either/or glycolic acid or Vitamin A and thereby improving the texture of the skin. During the day always protect the skin with at least a 30+ sunscreen.

To ensure there is no apparent difference of decades between the face and the rest of the body, it is far easier and less expensive to maintain the body appearance once and you have it in check. If you are interested in rejuvenating your face you should consider the rejuvenation of every part of the body that is exposed.

The Great Indoors

by | Apr 17, 2020 | Uncategorized

The last month has certainly been a change to our everyday lives none of us had planned for. I for one assumed things may change, but probably not to the extent they have now. So many of my clients are reaching out asking for assistance to upscale their home care skin regime. Most of us have a little more isolation time, and we are focusing on who and what is important to us and skin has certainly been one of those high on the priority list. This month I will focus on some extra home care tips to add and those to avoid for healthy skin.
Hand washing has never been more important than now. The first thing to consider is a hand wash that will not strip the natural oils from the skin. If this happens the skin is open to irritation, dryness, itchiness and bacteria entering creating an infection. Two hand washes we recommend are the Naturally European Verbena or Milk and the AHAVA Hand and Body Wash. Both ranges are pH balanced, and will not strip the natural oils but will effectively clean the skin. Once dried, your hands need to be nourished with either AHAVA Dermud Cream, or if there is an open wound the ASAP Silver Hand Cream will both protect and treat an infection with the silver which is considered to be one of nature’s strongest natural antibiotics.
So many of us are wearing face masks for extra protection. We have all seen photos of our health care workers, first responders, and those most at risk, with face rashes, bruising and skin irritations, due to prolonged mask usage. At Skin Inspiration, we have coined the term Skin Rehab for these conditions, where the skin needs to be soothed, calmed and nourished. Our first go to rehab products come from the Rhonda Allison range and include the Arnica Therapy, Calming Skin Gel and Post Balm Ointment.
Being in isolation so many of us are sitting in front of our computer screens far more than we normally would. This means we are exposing our skin to blue light. The highest source of blue light comes from the sun, and being indoors with our screens will also be creating free radicals which will lead to damage to our DNA. This, in turn, will create inflammation, speeding up the breakdown of collagen and elastin. A good proactive cocktail of serums will include a C Peptide, MVC, Growth Factor and Sea Gems morning and night with Pevonia Collagen or Elastin Cream as the final layering.
To boost the radiance of the skin we can perform Skin Needling with a serum cocktail of Growth Factor, Hyaluronic, Vitamin C Stem Cell and Vitamin A every other day. For that extra WOW follow this with a BIO Cellulose Face Mask and infuse the naturally hydrating and soothing ingredients of the mask with a Galvanic Infuser. This will infuse all of the water-based ingredients far more efficiently than if the mask is left sitting on the skin. The BIO Cellulose Mask can be used once a week, while the Galvanic Infuser can be used each day to infuse your serums, providing a healthy, radiant reflection when you look in your mirror. Even when you return to your Clinic for your regular treatments these home care extras will boost any professional treatment you have, giving longer-lasting results.
With more time on the internet don’t believe everything you read. With a myriad of products out there, they are being touted to remove pimples, wrinkles, bunions, boils, cellulite, fat and grey hair, all in one use. Most Clinics are providing either online or phone consultations where you can check what you should be using in a time of stress, where your skin may be exhibiting unusual outward signs that you have not seen before.
Please be assured we are there to assist and provide support, so reach out over the phone or online. Aestheticians are professionals with greater knowledge and professionalism than you will find online, they are ready to provide valid, helpful information. With the big change we are experiencing today, pressure can create diamonds if we are open to the possibilities.

Rethink Aging Skin

by | Mar 17, 2020 | Uncategorized

Skin Ageing is a complex biological process influenced by a combination of Internal (intrinsic) and External (extrinsic) factors. Natural aging is inevitable, however premature aging, which is usually caused by extrinsic factors, is not. In this article, I will look at new information provided by Matoyla Kolaras from Skin Factors, Australia.
While aging signs of internal organs cannot be seen, the skin’s outward expression provides the first obvious marks of the passing of time. If life is about to change, the skin is proof of that change. The fact remains that good, healthy-looking skin, and beauty, is still considered one of the principal factors representing the overall perception of well-being in people. In order to best treat, reverse and prevent further premature aging, there are some new players in this arena to be aware of when reviewing the multi-faceted processes that occur in the skin as we age.
The healthy pH of the skin is between 4.1 and 4.8, much lower than once thought. The pH of men’s skin is more acidic than women’s. The acid mantle plays a crucial role in skin integrity and cohesion (working with the skin’s own building blocks such as ceramides, cholesterol, enzymes and sweat, to enable the epidermis to stay balanced), immune function (normal healthy skin can resist acidic/alkaline aggression to some degree). As the skin ages, usually between 50 and 80 years of age, the pH increases, resulting in an impaired barrier, poor skin cohesion, defective lipid processing, reduced resistance to pathogens, increased sensitivity to treatments and products, increased likelihood of inflammation and disease, and reduced response and repair to injury. The news is not all bad as the simple solutions consist of using pH balanced cleansers and skincare products, having regular monthly facial treatments with the addition of an acidic exfoliator and low pH products, and home care products that support the acid mantle’s healthy flora such as probiotics.
The major age-related change is the increasing lack of bonding of Hyaluronic Acid (HA) to water. In younger skin the water is bound to HA and other proteins, while in older skin most of the water is bound to itself, known as tetrahedron or “bulk water”. As a result, collagen and elastin become harder and stiffer, together they can obstruct the passage of nutrients and waste between cells. Therefore, this lack of interaction between water and surrounding molecules may explain that although water content remains stable in older skin, it is often dry, withered and of poor quality. The solutions to these problems consist of identifying the difference between dehydrated and lipid deficient skin, what has caused the TEWL (transepidermal water loss) ie products, treatments, lifestyle and environment, and to use home care products containing hyaluronic acid and essential fatty acids.
Many of the symptoms we see in the aging of the skin and body are directly attributed to a decrease in hormones particularly estrogen and androgen. This can result in a decrease in sebum production, and the skin’s ability to retain moisture, thus leaving the skin prone to lipid dryness, dehydration (TEWL) and itchiness. The possible solutions are:
using a lipid-rich product nightly as the last product over serums to lock in moisture while allowing the skin to repair itself overnight; look for products with ingredients that contain hormone-like effects to ease the symptoms of hormonal reduction such as black cohosh and DHEA; use products with ingredients that will target epidermal lipid synthesis which will ease dryness such as Omega 3, 6,&7, ceramides, squalene and Shea butter.
While natural aging is genetically determined, extrinsic aging can be prevented. Aesthetic treatments and home care can contribute to healthy skin aging not only by trying to erase time vestiges in the skin, but by also playing a significant part in prevention, regeneration, and delaying of skin aging. The desired therapeutic anti-aging effect of the skin is a continuous, step by step process that must also explore inner health as well as skin health to achieve long-lasting and positive changes.

2020 – A New Decade – A New Better Version of You

by | Jan 17, 2020 | Uncategorized

2020 is the Chinese year of the White Metal Rat. Unlike 2019, the year of the Earth Pig, which had us stuck in the mud, the year of the White Metal Rat marks fresh hope, new excitement and new beginnings. This is the time of tremendous optimism if we choose to act upon that which lies in front of us. The new year starts with reviewing that which no longer serves us well, eliminating those who are not positive in our lives, and the setting of goals to make our everyday experiences the best they can possibly be. This usually consists of working on body, mind and spirit.
When we are born, we were endowed with amazing talents and gifts. These are intended to assist us with discovering the genius within ourselves and allow us to be the most exceptional person we can be in our lifetime. Behavioural scientists have found that optimistic people, in general, are more preserving and successful in life. Some positive activities to start each day with may include:
Improve cognitive ability by increasing mental productivity
Find solutions by improving the ability to enhance creativity
Each time a negative thought comes into our conscious mind, replace it with at least three things we are grateful for
Speak to ourselves positively and lovingly. Just think before having negative thoughts about ourselves, “would I say this to my best friend?”. The answer is no, so why sabotage and degrade ourselves
Start each day with a 5-minute positive thought or meditation
Negative thoughts make us more depressed, slow our creative ability, and inhibit our ability to connect with others. Which sounds more appealing, positive or negative?
Once we are on track mentally and spiritually, we are then able to focus on being the best version of ourselves physically. This does not mean being a different version, just the best version. The best version of ourselves may include adding exercise to our daily routine. This might be something as simple as a walk-in nature or practising our flexibility in order to be able to bend, stretch and remain flexible in all areas of our daily life.
We can also refresh our diets which might be to include either a balanced diet, keto, paleo, gluten-free or vegan. There is a rise in wellness nutrition and a huge surge in understanding being well on the outside firstly must involve being well on the inside. This might mean a visit to a naturopath, dietician or wholistic practitioner to assist us with ideas for what is the best fit for each of us, as we are all individuals and one size does not fit all.
Once the health jigsaw puzzle is coming together with the above areas, we can then focus on how we can be the best outward version of ourselves. This might mean consultation with a skincare professional who can assist with something as simple as having radiant, healthy skin with both a new homecare regime and an in-clinic programme. Radio Frequency technologies are now standard tools in the skin rejuvenation arena. From our nose to our toes unipolar and bipolar technology may assist with non-invasive skin and tissue tightening, slightly invasive RF micro-needling to treat skin texture, tightening and scars. The new kid on the block for skin regeneration and infusion of active ingredients is called the Tixel. This is fractional skin rejuvenation using pure, natural heat with minimal discomfort, and the healing time is short. It will improve wrinkles, fine lines, skin discolouration, sun-damaged skin, skin tone and texture, age spots and acne scars. With new technology and products available each year, we are also able to combine modalities to assist with revealing the best you and not someone who does not even resemble who you truly are.
In 2020, the start of the new decade, it is an exceptional time to reveal the best version of YOU. We can all choose to live by choice, not by chance; be motivated not manipulated; to be useful and not used; to excel and not compete; choose self-esteem, not pity; and choose to listen to our inner voices and not to random voices of others. In other words, choose to be the best version of YOU.