We all desire a clear and consistent skin tone. However, lingering hyperpigmentation is a constant barrier to achieving this. It impacts every skin type at every stage of our lives, especially when sun exposure, heat and prolonged UV damage are factors. The pleasing news is that with the proper homecare regime and in-clinic treatments, the brown spots can be reduced or removed completely. This will be a consistent programme including prevention and treatment.
Hyperpigmentation refers to areas of the skin with an abnormal appearance of pigment, resulting in darker areas of the skin compared to the rest of the complexion. There are 3 main types of hyperpigmentation: epidermal (surface is light brown and not quite as dense), dermal (skin is ashen-grey and a deep brown and appears more solid), and then a mixture (both of the above levels and is usually dark brown).
There are many triggers creating pigmentation (dyschromia) changes, as well as varying depths of damage to the skin. These types of changes in the skin may occur when melanocytes (colour-producing cells) are either over-stimulated resulting in hyperpigmentation, or they may be destroyed, resulting in hypopigmentation. The colour changes may also be an uneven pigmentation from procedures, picking or scratching. Melasma is denoted by more dense larger patches and is normally created with hormonal imbalance with estrogen and progesterone. Other causes may include birth control pills, HRT, PIH (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation), long-term sun exposure, razor bumps, heat, humidity, severe sunburn, eczema, chemical irritations, rashes, abrasive scrubs, medications, chicken pox, insect bites, surgical procedures, thyroid, and adrenal disorders.
One thing to keep in mind with most types of hyperpigmentation is our melanocytes are there for a reason, which is to protect the cell initially. We need this to help fight against the impact of the UV rays. After this protection process has taken place, the skin is now left with underlying damage which is seen in the form of pigmentation.
The two main factors stimulating hyperpigmentation are UV exposure and heat. Wearing an SPF of 30+ each day will assist with this protection. The best sunscreens for hyperpigmentation are typically all-mineral formulas. Chemical SPFs neutralize the UVA and UVB rays, while the mineral SPFs, create a barrier on top of the skin, blocking these factors and protecting it from infrared damage. A huge reminder, even when you wear your hat, sun protection and sunglasses and your face is covered, tanning on other parts of your body can still stimulate the melanocytes.
Hydroquinone is a well-known ingredient to treat hyperpigmentation. It is banned in many countries as it has been linked to possibly being carcinogenic. Our skin is very smart and may develop a resistance, or immunity to it, resulting in a very dark hyperpigmentation, which usually takes longer to reduce.
Other proven ingredients for use in both homecare and clinical treatments include the enzyme papain (from the papaya), and bakuchiol (a retinol alternative supporting the skin’s cellular renewal. When applied topically it encourages sloughing of overly pigmented cells, leaving skin looking renewed and more even),mandelic acid (a water soluble exfoliating alpha hydroxy acid made from bitter almonds and is generally tolerated well by most skin types with its larger molecular size and therefore slowing the absorption resulting in less irritation to the skin),tranexamic acid (will even out hyperpigmentation when melanin density is connected to sun damage. It is also safe to use through pregnancy), pyruvic acid (derived from the hibiscus and is both oil and water soluble and has the capacity to brighten the faster by encouraging the rapid cell regeneration), and niacinamide (a vitamin B3 product impedes the production of melanin as it is happening).
Some of the in-clinic treatments available include IPL(Intense Pulsed Light), Fractional Laser, Tixel, Q Switch Yag and herbal and chemical peels.
Protect the skin you are in; it is yours for a lifetime. Regardless of hyperpigmentation’s cause and its associated uneven tone and dark spots, it is essential in Australia to treat and prevent it on a regular basis. It is not a seasonal call to action, but instead a year-round commitment.
