A good skincare routine is essential for maintaining a healthy complexion and managing breakouts, but is there such a thing as starting too early? With social media bombarding teenagers and even younger children with beauty trends, many are experimenting with products designed for adult skin—often without understanding the potential risks.
Exposure to harsh or unnecessary skincare products at a young age can lead to irritation, breakouts, and long-term damage to the skin’s natural barrier. Since skin is a living organ, it needs to be nurtured appropriately. But at what point does an early skincare routine become harmful rather than beneficial? And what happens when we misuse products before we truly need them?
New Legislation to Protect Young Skin
In California, a new bill introduced by Assemblymember Alex Lee seeks to restrict the sale of certain over-the-counter (OTC) anti-ageing skincare products to minors under 18. The legislation targets ingredients such as retinol, retinoids, glycolic acid, and vitamin C, which, while effective for mature skin, may pose risks to younger, more delicate skin. If these ingredients are necessary for specific skin conditions, they should only be prescribed by a dermatologist or licensed aesthetician who can assess an individual’s needs.
The bill comes in response to a concerning trend: children as young as eight are purchasing and using anti-ageing skincare products, influenced by social media and beauty marketing. Dubbed the “Sephora Kids” phenomenon, this movement sees young consumers drawn to products designed to reduce wrinkles, brighten skin, and boost collagen—despite already having naturally youthful, resilient skin.
Research from organisations such as UCLA Health and Connecticut Children’s Medical Center has highlighted the potential risks of using these products too early, including skin irritation, breakouts, heightened sun sensitivity, and long-term damage. Experts warn that these potent formulations, when applied to young skin, can weaken the skin barrier rather than protect it.
Why Young Skin Doesn’t Need Anti-Ageing Products
The simple truth is that children and teens do not need anti-ageing skincare. Their skin is naturally plump, hydrated, and regenerates rapidly without the need for intervention. However, the rise in social media skincare influencers has led to widespread misinformation, with young users adopting multi-step routines designed for older adults.
Key active ingredients found in anti-ageing products, such as retinol and glycolic acid, are formulated to address age-related skin concerns like fine lines, pigmentation, and collagen depletion—issues that do not affect young skin. In fact,children’s skin has a thinner barrier, faster cell turnover, and increased sensitivity, making it far more vulnerable to irritation from harsh ingredients.
Unlike adults, children’s skin also contains a naturally higher concentration of ceramides and hydration factors, meaning it requires far less intervention. Overuse of strong skincare products can strip away these natural defences, leading to redness, flaking, breakouts, and a compromised skin barrier.
Despite these concerns, regulatory bodies such as the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and Australia’s Therapeutic Goods Administration (TGA) do not enforce testing of these ingredients on children, leaving asignificant gap in safety regulations. This lack of oversight means that young consumers, often influenced by trends rather than expert advice, are left to navigate an industry that isn’t designed with their skin in mind.
A Global Concern
The debate over young consumers using anti-ageing products isn’t limited to California. In Sweden, pharmacy chain Apotek Hjärtat has implemented age restrictions on the sale of anti-ageing products, ensuring they are not accessible to minors.
Meanwhile, skincare purchases for minors in the U.S. have surged, with a 28.6% increase among teens and a 27.2% increase among tweens in 2023 alone. Similarly, in Australia, the rise of social media-driven skincare trends has led to increased interest in active ingredient-based products among younger consumers, yet there are no formal regulations addressing this issue.
In regions like South Korea and Japan, where skincare is deeply embedded in beauty culture, the trend of young people experimenting with advanced skincare formulas is also growing. While these countries emphasise hydration and barrier protection, some younger consumers are still incorporating high-strength anti-ageing ingredients into their routines, despite expert warnings.
The Consequences of Incorrect Skincare Use
In my clinic, I frequently see teenagers who have self-prescribed skincare products based on social media recommendations. Many of them are using products intended for adult skin, either to prevent premature ageing or to treat acne. However, without professional guidance, they often choose products that are too strong or unnecessary, leading to unintended damage.
When the skin barrier becomes compromised due to excessive exfoliation, harsh ingredients, or overuse of actives, the effects can be severe. The skin can become highly reactive, leading to redness, dryness, itching, peeling, and even chronic inflammation. Instead of achieving healthy, glowing skin, many teens find themselves dealing with irritation and increased sensitivity.
A Smarter Approach to Teen Skincare
Rather than adopting anti-ageing skincare too early, young people should focus on a balanced, protective routinetailored to their skin’s actual needs. A simple, effective skincare regimen should:
• Gently cleanse to remove dirt, oil, and impurities
• Hydrate to maintain the skin’s natural moisture balance
• Protect against environmental stressors, such as pollution and UV exposure
For those experiencing acne or other skin concerns, seeking professional advice is far more effective than following social media trends. A dermatologist or trained aesthetician can recommend appropriate products that support rather than compromise the skin barrier.
Final Thoughts
Trends may come and go, but skin health is for life. Instead of jumping on skincare fads designed for older consumers, young people should focus on nurturing their skin in a way that supports its natural strength. The best skincare routine isn’t about looking younger or older—it’s about keeping your skin healthy and resilient for the future.
